R-My Bridge Book-Read The Book.htm

When Betty Ingledew, my dear partner until her death in April 1990, saw my notes, she strongly advised me to publish them. If they are to be published, it is thanks to her and her spirit.

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And my thanks to my wife Elaine for helping me to correct my terrible English.

İ.Rami AYDIN --Ret'd Pharmacist BSc.--

41 Broadleas Park, Devizes, Wilts. SN10 5JA UK

E-mail 1 : rami.aydin@btinternet.com

Web : http://www.rami.aydin.btinternet.co.uk

In Turkish :

E-mail 2 : disardan.turkiye@btinternet.com

Web : http://www.Disardan-Turkiye-Ingiltere.co.uk

I gave up playing Bridge in Ankara, Turkey in the early 70s, when there was another boom in new systems and conventions, and pretentious players were springing up all over the place. At that time I thought to myself that it was not worth trying to learn all these new systems and conventions unless I were to give up my job / my pharmacy and become a full time Bridge player. And, in addition, I have always looked on the extreme use of these completely artificial systems and conventions as cheating; trying to take advantage of one's opponents' honesty and naivity by bewildering them with bids which don't mean what they should.

After retiring early and coming to this country in 1981 I found here in Devizes kind people and a friendly atmosphere in which to play the occasional game of Bridge, at the Crown Centre and at Devizes Bridge Club of which I am one of the founder members and proud to be so.

I make no claim to be an expert (I wouldn't want to be one anyway), probably I am not even a very good player, but I have always wanted to play well and I have always enjoyed the game.

During the time I have played Bridge I have noticed that lots of Bridge players, including the good ones and myself, still don't know or can't remember some small points about the game. And because not everyone can deal with hundreds of books and hundreds of systems and conventions whenever and wherever necessary, the most helpful way of tackling the problem is to have a handy, small size REMINDER of the most commonly used and accepted rules, and the system most widely played in this country: ACOL.

This is what I aimed to do. I am not writing a book; I have prepared a pocket guide for my own use, to carry with me as a reminder. To do this I collected some information from Bridge documents and experts' books and put it together in the present format, using my own knowledge and experience of the game as well. So, if anyone remembers or recognises anything from my booklet, I ask their forgiveness beforehand.

When my Bridge friends saw this guide,they advised me to get it published; they felt sure that its handy size and shape and the information in it would be appreciated by many Bridge players for their own practical and short‑term needs too. After being helped and reminded by the notes in this guide, the player can then go on to consult the more comprehensive books of the experts.

Of course, to try to squeeze Bridge into a small format guide like this seems an impossible task when hundreds of books can not do it. I personally do not believe that Bridge will ever be formulated by mathematical and unchangeable rules; probably not even the most sophisticated computers will be able to formulate such rules because of the impossibility of feeding the computer with all the data. Here we come to the most amazing statistic of Bridge; the total number of hands that can be distributed among the four players is: (29 digits)

53.644.737.765.488.792.839.237.440.000

If you multiply these possibilities by other variables; such as position of players, playing conditions, different systems, conventions, opening leads, signals etc. not to mention personal factors such as nervousness, tension, differing skills and experience, different playing techniques of players, you can see how fascinating and UNPREDICTABLE Bridge is.

If I tell you that according to Dorothy Hayden; "Mathematicians aren't particularly good players and sometimes make very poor players, and that as a class, lawyers are better players than any others." probably you will understand what I mean when I say that Bridge is an unpredictable game. That is why there are so many systems and conventions invented and so many books written by experts; to try to solve the problems of the game, and make it more enjoyable. (But unfortunately sometimes they make it more confusing.) Thus everyone playing Bridge should accept from the outset that every hand is different and unique, and therefore may or may not fit the rules.

I have a Computer and one of the best Bridge programs; and play it sometimes. I get really surprised when I see it playing stupidly lots of times. I suppose programing a computer to play Bridge must be horrendous because of the facts and factors I mentioned above. I hope you will not blame me for calling my computer an idiot !

So if Bridge is a challenging and difficult game in itself, you must defend the concept of Bridge by persisting in playing it in the normal and natural way. Otherwise it is going to be murdered by these fanatics of really artificial conventions and you will be left aside.

Middle aged people will remember the book "Calling a Spade a Spade" written by Ben Cohen and Rhoda Barrow (Lederer). It says:

".....using the straightforward common‑ sensical natural bidding of the Acol System, which means calling a spade a spade, not a bloody shovel or a diamond, or any other fancy name, the right contract can unerringly be achieved even in the most difficult situations."

Poor old Ben and Rhoda; did you know that nowadays these fancy conventions and playing methods are called "Scientific (!), Semi-scientific (!) etc."; let alone Spades or bloody shovels. What jargon ! We were not taught Bridge as a Science because everyone knew that Science usually needs definite descriptions accepted by everyone."

There are three statements about Bridge which I like very much. The first is:

"THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE."

Interestingly you can find this sentence in every book and after every rule.

If you like, you can make this statement the only Definite Rule.

This being so, do not be strictly bound by points and rules, use them as indicators, if you want to play Bridge. If you don't want to play Bridge, although you are sitting at the table, there are lots of players, even including your partner, who can make you into a real spectator during the game or someone who fills the fourth seat. They can do this by their continuous bids in a confusingly wide range of conventions while you are sitting there waiting for one extra point in order to bid. Try to evaluate your hand taking every value factor into account within the ethics and present rules of the game.

Do not upset anyone or let them upset you over one less or one extra point or over a mistake, as if they never make one; it is a marvellous game and you should enjoy it.

Maybe we would make Bridge a lot easier if we could say that "Anyone who has got a certain number of points is going to make a certain score, so there is no need to play the hand !!!"

My second favourite statement is by Rixi Markus:

"BID BOLDLY, PLAY SAFELY."

But you should not of course bid in a foolhardy way. You can compensate for your boldness with your careful and safe play. And to my mind you should give utter importance to "CARD READING".

If you look carefully and think about what is being played or discarded, you will be surprised to see how much they are telling you.

You can't learn from bad players; so try to find a good partner who is on the same wave‑length as you and who is tolerant. Of course you will discuss briefly the hands just played in order to learn your mistakes or to tell others theirs. This should be done, though, without making a mountain out of a mole‑hill or without looking down on your Bridge companions. All of us make mistakes. Do not demoralize yourself or your partner if you want to continue playing.

But never play with anyone who says he or she never makes mistakes and does not want to discuss the hand.

Good players are more predictable than any other types; especially if you are playing the same tune. The ones you must be more careful about are the ones who use extreme conventions and poor players who are unpredictable in the way they play.

The third statement is:

"EVEN HOMER NODS."

But Homers can easily find excuses for their own mistakes without you realising that some of them are nonsense! The sad thing is that their chance of winning is increased by the fact that their opponents are intimidated. Listen to this true story:

"An expert went into a Grand Slam contract missing the Ace of his trump suit, and was left undoubled. When the person who held the Ace of trumps was asked why she didn't double the contract, the dear old lady said: 'You don't know Mr.X; he always redoubles.' "

I think that these, my three favourite statements, can be your defence and weapons against such people. Use them wisely and reasonably.

Losing can be turned into success if you are able to get something out of it.

I am sure most players will find mistakes (including language) and short‑comings in this guide. First of all, as I said before, I am not an expert just a practical player. Secondly, most of the mistakes probably come from my own concept of Bridge and the Acol System and my way of playing it. It is obvious by now that I prefer ACOL to all other systems. Please forgive me for any short‑comings; I would be happy to receive any constructive criticism.

I should like to take this opportunity of acknowledging my gratitude to the great masters of Bridge from whose books I have learned such a lot : Ely Culbertson, Charles H. Goren, Dorothy Hayden, Edgar Kaplan, Rhoda Lederer, Victor Mollo, Terence Reese, Albert Dormer, Hugh Kelsey, Rixi Marcus.

İ.Rami AYDIN

Devizes; March 1984

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PS : I started writing my notes in 1984 and added, changed, and upgraded things over the years. But it looks as if the main idea, the main structure of my work and the main building stones of the game haven't changed a lot. The game of Bridge is much as it was 50-60 years ago. And I still get great pleasure, and still learn from the books of , for example, Ely Culbertson or Charles Goren.

Some years ago, I contacted several publishers to get my work published, but none of them were interested. Some refused in a kind way and wished me success; but others obviously wanted to say, "Who do you think you are?" .

Now, I have decided to get it published myself. I hope you will enjoy my little book, and find it useful. I especially advise you to read the "TIPS & TACTICS" section with care

İ.R.A --- November 1998.

THE HISTORY OF BRIDGE Contents

That Bridge developed from Whist everyone knows; but what are the origins of Whist? Authorities are a bit hazy on the origins of the game. Some say Eastern Europe or Russia, some India. The name "Bridge" has no clear origin either, though it is sometimes linked to the Russian "Biritch, or Russian Whist".

We do know, however, that over a thousand years ago, playing cards were in use in China. By the 13th Century they were found in Europe, and by the 15th Century we know of card games played in England with names that sound oddly familiar: Triumph (Trump), Ruff and Honours, Whisk and Swabbers, and Whisk itself. It seems clear from the references to these games that they are the ancestors of Whist.

During the 17^th Century Whisk or Whist, as it became known, grew in popularity and during the next century firmly established itself in the coffee houses and clubs of London as the game to play and bet on.

The first book on Whist appeared in 1742 : "A Short Treatise on Whist" by Edmond Hoyle. This famous book helped to spread the popularity of the game to Europe and to the United States. In its heyday Whist was thought of just as seriously by the society ladies and gentlemen who played it as Bridge is today by its devotees. By the beginning of the 19th Century Whist was a truly international game, the expert at that time being the Frenchman Guillaume Deschapelles.

In the mid 19th Century, Henry Jones, known by his pseudonym Cavendish, wrote many books on Whist and his system of leads, including the lead of "The Fourth Best", remain standard to this day. It was Cavendish who directed the first Duplicate Tournament in London in 1857.

Another clue about the origins of Bridge comes from Colonel Study. He claimed that he learned Bridge when he was serving in the British Army at Plevna in 1879 during the Russian-Turkish war where the British and the Turks were allies. This would explain why Whist was Russian for which there is no other evidence. He, and all other officers who played with him would associate the game with Russia. And most possibly these people are the origins of the famous pamphlet of "Biritch, or Russian Whist" which was published on 1886. As the game became popular in the upper class clubs of Istanbul at a very early date, it is reasonable to conjecture that Colonel Studdy and his friends learned it from Turkish officers or vice versa.

It was towards the end of the 19th Century that Bridge as we know it started to emerge. Three important changes involved were that the Dealer (or his partner) was given the right to name the trump suit, that the opponent could double and the dealer redouble, and that the hand of dealer's partner was exposed: the origins of the ideas of declarer and dummy. The introduction of this so‑called Bridge or Bridge Whist into the clubs of London around 1894 is sometimes attributed to Lord Brougham. The notion of competitive bidding was introduced around 1904 and the new form of the name was Auction Bridge. This soon ousted Bridge Whist, although the parent game Whist continued to be played side by side with the Auction Bridge.

The influence of the French game Plafond on Bridge was crucial; it introduced in about 1918 the notion of bidding a game before scoring a game, that is, only counting towards a game those tricks that were contracted for in the auction. These features of Plafond were absorbed by the famous American Harold Stirling Vanderbilt into Bridge. He combined the best features of the French game and Auction Bridge with a new scoring system, including a new idea of Vulnerability, and around 1925 Contract Bridge came into being in New York. Within a few years

Vanderbilt's methods were universally adopted. All other forms of the game were gradually eclipsed, and since 1930, though there have been a few changes in the scoring, the form of Contract Bridge has remained basically the same.

Since Vanderbilt, Ely Culbertson and Charles H. Goren have been the two men chiefly responsible for making Contract Bridge an International success, the former being the founder of Bridge World Magazine, both being expert players and writers of numerous works on Bridge and outstanding international authorities on the game.

PS:

Lots of English friends ask me the difference between "Auction Bridge" and "Contract Bridge". It sounds to me as if they are questioning why there should be a difference between the words Auction and Contract and consequently their game of Bridge when they both have Auction and Contract elements in them. Don't they both reach the same target, an agreed Contract by Auction anyway?

It looks reasonable, but it is a fact that Auction Bridge needed many improvements in the techniques of bidding and valuation, and in the end this gave birth to Contract Bridge.

For example the most important difference is this:

In Auction all the dealer has to do is to bid one NT or one of his suit; all his partner has to do is to pass. After this bidding, the game proceeds and the declaring side takes the full benefit of all the tricks they make. Their contract and game is secure from the beginning and they may even score a Slam Bonus, as if they had valued their hand up to that point and bid for it.

But in Contract, the dealer must estimate the value of his hand as precisely as possible and bid it; not just one and then stop; but 2, 3 or even more. The partner too must try to find the real value of his hand, and show it, rather than an easy and comfortable "No Bid". They will score according to what they bid. They can't score a game that wasn't bid; while in Auction, game and even Slam can be scored below the line even when not bid.

Lots of logical and challenging improvements were added to Auction Bridge and these improvements have continued over the years and are still continuing, more than I can describe in my little book. Just think of the complexity of today's Bridge!

Bridge literature is very rich. Anyone who wants detailed information on any part of Bridge can easily find a source.

GLOSSARY OF BRIDGE TERMS Contents

ABOVE THE LINE : All scores except for tricks bid and made are entered above the line on the score sheet.

APPROACH BID / APPROACH FORCING: Style of bidding -system- a short suit by way of approach (with caution), --the bid at the one-level of an as yet unnamed suit to force partner for a reply. Any such bid must not be passed.

AUCTION : The period of bidding.

AVOIDANCE : A play made to prevent the more dangerous opposing hand from gaining the lead.

BALANCED HAND : An evenly distributed hand with no singleton or void.

BARRED : Stopped from bidding by a legal penalty

BELOW THE LINE : The place on the score sheet where the tricks bid and made are entered.

BID : An offer to win at least a specified number of tricks over and above six.

BIDDABLE SUIT :A player's holding in a suit that meets the systemic requirements for a bid.

BLANK A SUIT : Discard all cards held in that suit

BLANK SUIT : Absence of any cards of that suit from the hand.

BLOCKING : A situation in which the high cards in one hand, unaccompanied by low cards, prevent playing winners in the same suit from the opposite hand.

BOOK : The number of tricks (6) a side must win before it can score by winning subsequent tricks.

BROKEN SEQUENCE : 3 cards of which the 2 highest ranking are in sequence and the third is one card out of sequence. (K‑Q‑10)

BUSINESS DOUBLE : A double which is made in the expectation that the opponents will go down. (As opposed to take‑out double). The effect of the double is to increase the penalty if the contract fails. Also called "Penalty Double".

CALL : Any bid, double, redouble or pass.

CASH : Lead and win tricks with established cards.

COMMUNICATIONS : The ability of partners to pass the lead to each other.

COMPETITIVE BIDDING : An auction in which both sides take part.

CONDONE : Waive penalty for an irregularity.

CONTRACT : The final bid of the auction. The obligation to win a certain number of tricks.

CONTROL : The commanding position or card in a suit, such as A, K, void, or singleton that will enable the player to win the first or second round.

CONVENTION : An agreement to give an unnatural or unusual meaning to a certain bid or play.

CROSS-RUFF : To ruff back and forth between the partnership hands; enabling the partnership to make their trumps separately.

CUE-BID : A bid made after trumps have been agreed, to show first round control rather than a genuine suit; also, overcall in a suit bid by the opponents.

DECLARER : The player who for his side first bid the denomination named in the contract, and who plays the hand.

DEFENDER : Either of the opponents who play against the declarer.

DEFENSIVE BIDDING : Bidding by the side which did not make the opening bid.

DENOMINATION : Nature of contract, either suit or no‑trumps.

DELAYED GAME RAISE : A jump bid to game in ope-ner's suit following a simple first‑round change of suit, by which time responder has heard opener's rebid.

DEUCE : Any two‑spot.

DISCARD : To throw away a card in a suit which is neither the suit led nor trump.

DOUBLE FINESSE : Finesse against two missing cards.

DOUBLETON : The holding of only 2 cards in a suit. Value is immaterial.

DRAW : To play off; in the trump suit, to lead trumps till the opponents have no more.

DROP : The fall of a specific card, usually of honour rank, when a card of higher rank is led.

DUCK : The play of a low card and refusal to win a trick for tactical reasons when a higher card is held.

DUMMY : The hand opposite to declarer. Laid on the table face upwards immediately after the opening lead.

ECHO : Play high and then low, to signal partner you wish a suit continued, or to enable him to count the number of cards you hold in that suit.

END-PLAY : Tactical situation towards the end of a hand, usually by passing the lead to an opponent when few cards remain forcing him to lead disadvantageously.

ENTRY : A card that enables a player to win a trick to permit him to lead from a particular hand.

ESTABLISH : (A suit or a card) To promote the lower cards of a suit to the rank of winners by forcing out adverse higher cards.

FACE CARD : Any King, Queen or Jack (picture cards)

FALSE CARD : A card played out of natural sequence, usually in an attempt to deceive opponents about the position of the true card. Rough rule is; Declarer should always false‑card; defenders never.

FINESSE : An attempt to win or establish a trick with a card which is neither the highest that you hold in a suit nor in sequence with your highest. Such as A.Q. in the hope that the missing K. lies with the previous player.

FIRST ROUND CONTROL : The holding of an A. or void, which guarantees no immediate losers in that suit.

FIT : Good mutual support in the combined hands of a partnership.

FORCE‑OUT (KNOCK‑OUT) : The concession of a trick to a master card in an opponent's hand in order to establish tricks in the player's hand.

FORCING BID : Any bid which unconditionally demands a reply from partner. eg., Forcing one round; Forcing to game; Forcing to slam.

FREAK :A hand or deal with wildly unbalanced distribution

FREE BID : A free bid, raise, rebid or response is one that follows an intervening bid by the right‑hand opponent.

One made voluntarily not under any systemic compulsion.

GRAND COUP : A trump reducing play that involves trumping one's own winning card. A double grand coup repeats this play.

HIGH-LOW ; PETERING : See ECHO.

HOLD-UP : The refusal to take a trick when able; tactical manoeuvre usually aimed at cutting the opponent's communication.

INFORMATORY DOUBLE : A systemic double made primarily to give information to partner.

INITIAL BID : Opening bid.

INTERMEDIATES : Useful cards between high and low ones, such as 10, 9, 8.

INTERVENING BID : A bid made by an opponent after one player has bid and before his partner has responded.

IRREGULARITY : Any departure from a law of correct procedure.

JUMP BID : A bid "One‑level higher" than necessary to over‑call the previous bid.

DOUBLE JUMP : "Two‑level higher"

JUMP SHIFT : A single jump bid in a new suit made by a player who has previously bid a different suit or whose partner has done so.

KIBITZER : An onlooker. Should be unobtrusive, but is frequently not.

LEAD : The first card played to a trick.

LEAD‑DIRECTING BID OR DOUBLE : A bid or double of an opponent's bid, made specifically to direct partner's attention to the lead required.

LIMIT BID : A bid that conveys the full values of the hand within a narrow range of strength; both upper and lower limit.

LONG CARD : One left in a hand after opponents are exhausted of the suit.

LOSER : A card that can not win a trick.

MAJOR SUIT : Either Hearts or Spades.

MASTER CARD : The highest card of a suit remaining live or unplayed.

MATCH-POINT : Unit of scoring in Duplicate Bridge, won by surpassing the score of another pair holding the same cards.

MCKENNY : (Convention). The discard of a high or a low card asking for the lead of a high, or low-ranking suit.

MINOR SUIT : Either Diamonds or Clubs.

NEGATIVE DOUBLE : Informatory or Take‑Out double

NEGATIVE RESPONSE : A response which by convention denies certain values or strength, made in answer to a forcing bid from partner.

NEW SUIT : A suit which has not previously been bid.

NO BID : A call indicating no desire to make a bid, double or redouble.

NONVULNERABLE : Not having scored a game.

ODD TRICKS : Tricks won by declarer in excess of six (Book).

OFF SIDE : (A card which is) in unfavourable position for a winning finesse.

ON SIDE : (A card which is) in favourable position for a winning finesse.

ON SCORE : Having a part‑score towards game.

OPENER : The player who makes the first bid of the auction.

OPENING BID : The first bid of the auction other than a pass or, in play, the first lead.

OPENING LEAD : The card lead to the first trick by the player on the left of the declarer.

OPTIONAL DOUBLE : A take‑out double which partner may well leave in, usually because it is made over a high bid.

OVERCALL : Bid by a defender over an opponent's opening, before partner enters the auction.

OVERRUFF (OVERTRUMP) : To ruff a trick with a higher trump than the previous player.

OVERTAKE : To play a card higher than the present winning card played by the partner.

OVERTRICK : A trick made in excess of the named contract.

PART-SCORE : A contract, a score below the line less than game.

PASS : No bid.

PASSED HAND : A player who has passed when he could have opened the bidding instead.

PASSED OUT : (A deal) thrown in because all four players in succession passed.

PATTERN : The distribution of the four suits in a hand of thirteen cards.

PENALTY : 1) Points lost by a side that has failed to make a contract.

2) After an infraction of the rules, the handicap placed by law on the offending side.

PENALTY CARD : A card illegally exposed by a defender, left face up in front of him.

PENALTY DOUBLE ; BUSINESS DOUBLE: A call by a player implying that the opponent's contract will be defeated and penalty will be increased.

PENALTY PASS : Pass that converts a take‑out double into a penalty double.

PETER ; PETERING : A signal, also called Echo or High‑Low, to convey a message to partner. For example to show a doubleton or encourage partner to continue that suit.

PIANOLA : A hand that plays itself automatically and cannot go wrong.

PLAIN SUIT : A suit other than trumps.

PLAYING TRICKS : Tricks that you are likely to win if you play the contract in your selected denomination.

POINTS : Units of scoring.

POINT COUNT : Method of hand valuation, based on Honour Cards, Distribution or both.

POSITIVE RESPONSE : A response to partner's forcing bid showing certain values as compared with negative response.

PRE-EMPTIVE BID : An unnecessarily high level bid (3 or higher) made not to show strength but to make it difficult for the opponents to compete.

PREFERENCE : A bid which chooses between two trump suits suggested by partner, nor necessarily showing support.

PREMIUMS : All scores other than for odd tricks.

PREPARED BID : A bid made out of the natural sequence (possibly on a 3‑card suit) in the hope that the player will be able to bid accurately on the next round.

PROTECTIVE BID : A bid made by fourth‑in‑hand, following two passes, and based on the presumption that partner has undisclosed strength.

PSYCHIC BID : A bluff bid based on nonexistent values to confuse the opponents.

PUMP : Shorten an opponent's trump holding by forcing him to ruff.

QUANTITATIVE BID : A bid which asks partner to go on; showing the top limit of the hand, generally a Slam invitation.

QUICK TRICKS : High cards or combinations of high cards that will win a trick on the first or second round.

RAISE : Direct support for partner, as by raising him in the same suit (or NT).

RE-BID : 1) The second and subsequent bid made by a player. 2) Bid one suit twice.

REBIDDABLE SUIT : A suit long enough and strong enough to be bid and re‑bid without support from partner.

RE-DOUBLE : Call that can be made only following an opponent's double, increasing penalties if the contract fails, and increasing trick score and bonuses if the contract succeeds.

RE-ENTRY : A card with which a hand can eventual ly gain the lead after having lost it.

RENOUNCE : Play a card not of the suit lead.

REVERSE : To re‑bid (by either opener or responder) in a new suit higher in rank and at a higher level than the first suit.

REVOKE : Fail to follow suit when able to do so; fail to play a card as required by a law of correct procedure or by a proper penalty.

RUBBER : The winning of the first two out of three games by one side and is credited with bonus points.

RUFF ; TO TRUMP : To play a trump when a suit other than trumps is led.

RUN A SUIT : Keep on playing winning cards of one suit.

SACRIFICE : Over-bid deliberately, expecting to go down, but to lose less in penalties than the value of an opposing contract.

SCORE : The accumulated total of points won by a side.

SEPARATE SUITS : Two suits which do not adjoin in rank, so that both suits could be bid at the same level if partner responds in a suit which ranks in between.

SEQUENCE : Two, more commonly three, or more cards of the same suit in unbroken order. "Sequential Cards."

SET : To defeat a contract. A "One‑trick set" is down one.

SET-UP : Establish a long suit, or honours as winners, by forcing out superior enemy cards

SHADED BID : A bid made on somewhat less than the normal requirements.

SHIFT : Play a different suit from the one started by the partnership.

SHORT CLUB : The opening bid in a three card Club suit.

SHORT SUIT : A holding of less than four cards in a suit.

SHUT-OUT BID : A pre‑emptive bid.

SIDE CARD : Any of a plain suit.

SIDE STRENGTH : High cards in plain suits.

SIDE SUIT; (PLAIN SUIT) : 1) A suit other than trumps. 2) A secondary suit held by the declarer.

SIGNAL : Any convention of play whereby one partner properly informs the other of his holdings or desires.

SIGN-OFF : A rebid which indicates that the hand contains no additional values other than those already shown, and unwillingness to bid any further.

SINGLETON : A suit holding of only one card. Value is immaterial.

SOLID SUIT : A suit which can be run without loss.

SPLIT HONOURS : Play one of several honours in sequence when following to a trick as second hand.

SPOT CARD : A card other than an honour. (9,8,7,6 etc.)

SQUEEZE : A situation, an end‑play in which a player is forced to discard a vital card, a winner, or cards that protect winners thereby causing him to lose a trick.

STOPPER : A card or combination of cards that will interrupt the run of the opponents' suit and that will win a trick.

STRIP : A play by the declarer to eliminate from his own hand, from dummy the cards in one or two suits.

STRONG HAND : A hand which has more values than those needed for the bid made.

SUFFICIENT BID : One high enough legally to supersede the last previous bid.

SUIT-PREFERENCE SIGNAL : An advanced signal indicating which suit to switch to.

SUPPORT : 1) Sufficient cards in partner's suit to justify a raise, 2) A bid which shows such values.

SYSTEM : The conventional methods of bidding between partners on the requirements for various bids and tactical procedure in various situations.

TABLE : An alternative word for DUMMY. "The lead is on the table" means that dummy must lead to the next trick. Also a card is "tabled" when it is placed face upwards on the table.

TAKE-OUT : A bid in a different denomination from that bid by partner.

TAKE-OUT DOUBLE : A double made not for penalties, but for the partner to bid his best suit or NT.

TEMPO : Unit of time in the play.

TEMPORIZING BID : A bid made in an unplayable suit, in order to show strength or mark time before suggesting where to play the contract

TENACE : Combination of cards not in sequence, such as A‑Q, held over K.J, whose trick‑winning power depends on where the missing card lies and who has the lead. The word has no connexion with 'Ten' and 'Ace' though, in certain circumstances, a tenace could consist of A.10.

THROW-IN : A deal that results in no bids being made. The deal passes to the player on the left.

TOUCHING CARDS : are equals, cards in sequence.

TOUCHING SUITS : are those next to each other in rank.

TRIAL BID : A bid used to investigate whether partner can assist with a weak spot.

TRICK : The four cards played in rotation by the four players.

TRUMP : Suit named in the contract that wins over any other suit; a card of that suit; to play such a card when another suit has been led (To ruff).

TRUMP COUP : An advanced play, forcing a defender to ruff and be overruffed, thereby capturing a trump.

TRUMP-ECHO : The high‑low signal used in the trump suit to indicate possession of another trump.

TWO-SUITER : A hand containing five or more cards in each of two suits.

UNBALANCED HAND : A hand containing a singleton or void, or one or more dominantly long suits.

UNBLOCK : To play or discard a card that would otherwise prevent the run of a suit or win a unwelcome trick.

UNDERBID : A call that understates the value of the hand; also, in law, an insufficient bid.

UNDERTRICK : Each trick by which declarer falls short of making his contract.

VOID : The holding of no cards in a suit. Blank suit.

VULNERABLE : State of pair that has scored one game.

WAITING BID : Used in approach-forcing systems. The calling of an, as yet, unbid suit to force partner to call again. Used in the hope of getting a better picture of his hand before deciding the contract.

YARBOROUGH:A hand containing no card higher than a 9

SOME PROBABILITIES Contents

FASCINATING FIGURES AND FACTS.

The total number of hands can be distributed among the 4 players in a very large number of different ways. And the number of possibilities runs to 29 digits:

53.644.737.765.488.792.839.237.440.000

The chances of being dealt some interesting and special holdings:

‑-All 4 players each holding a 13‑card suit occurs 1 time in every:

2.235.197.406.895.366.368.301.560.000 deals

and they say, to play this number of deals could take 100 trillion years.

Holding of a 13‑card specified suit (i.e.Spades)	1 in 635.013.559.600
Holding of a 13‑card unspecified suit	1 in 158.753.389.899
Holding a Yarborough	1 in 1.827
Holding all 5 honours in one unspecified suit	1 in 504
Holding all 4 Aces	1 in 378
Holding 4 honours in a specified suit	1 in 22
Holding a void	1 in 19
Holding a singleton	1 in 2

HAND PATTERNS :

There are 39 hand patterns; they range from the most frequent, which is 4‑4‑3‑2, to the most rare, which is 13‑0‑0‑0. The frequencies of some of the most frequent patterns are not always the most balanced ones.

4--4--3--2	22 %
5--3--3--2	16 %
5--4--3--1	13 %
5--4--2--2	11 %
4--3--3--3	11 %
6--3--2--2	6 %
6--4--2--1	5 %
6--3--3--1	3 %
5--5--2--1	3 %
4--4--4--1	3 %
7--3--2--1	2 %
6--4--3--0	1 %
5--4--4--0	1 %
5--5--3--0	1 %
6--5--1--1	1 %
7--2--2--2	1/2 %
The remaining 23 patterns total roughly: 3 %

DISTRIBUTION OF CARDS IN THE TWO UNKNOWN HANDS (Suit Divisions)

*If you & partner have together in one suit*	*Out-standing Cards*	*The remaining cards of that suit in opponents’ hands will be divided*
11 cards	2	1 -- 1	52 %
11 cards	2	2 -- 0	48 %

10 cards	3	2 -- 1	78 %
10 cards	3	3 -- 0	22 %

9 cards	4	3 -- 1	50 %
		2 -- 2	40 %
		4 -- 0	10 %

8 cards	5	3 -- 2	68 %
		4 -- 1	28 %
		5 -- 0	4 %

7 cards	6	4 -- 2	48 %
		3 -- 3	36 %
		5 -- 1	15 %
		6 -- 0	1 %

6 cards	7	4 -- 3	62 %
		5 -- 2	31 %
		6 -- 1	7 %
		7 -- 0	1/2 %

5 cards	8	5 -- 3	47 %
		4 -- 4	33 %
		6 -- 2	17 %
		7 -- 1	3 %
		8 -- 0	0,2 %

4 cards	9	5 -- 4	59 %
		6 -- 3	31 %
		7 -- 2	9 %
		8 -- 1	1 %
		9 -- 0	0,01 %

In the majority of cases the odds favour an uneven break of an even number of outstanding cards (i.e. 6 outstanding cards will break mostly 4--2, not 3--3), but as close as possible to an even break of an odd number. (i.e. 5 outstanding cards will break mostly 3--2)

GOLDEN SAYINGS Contents

Before starting the technical section I would like to give some of the golden and true sayings in Bridge:

--- "Your bidding is only as good as your play makes it"

--- "If you are a good defender you are more than half way to success in Bridge."

--- About 'Rule of Finessing':

"Eight ever, nine never."

-‑ The rule above is true in most of cases; but you should not forget that, as usual, there are cases which will not follow this rule.

So: "If you can make a contract without finessing, don't finesse"

Talking about finessing reminds me of a theory applied by some players which is done when "You have the Ace and King, and a two way finesse for the Queen is the subject; and there is no indication which way you should take" . They call it "Queen to lie over the Jack". It is not based on mathematics. It is an assumption that the previous deal, most of the time is an imperfect shuffling, when the Queen may have covered a Jack.

Some say that with no singletons in your hand or dummy, play for the drop; with a singleton or void in either hand, take the finesse. This is based on "The Culbertson Theory of Similarity of Distributions". They argue that when there is a singleton in one hand there will be a compensating singleton elsewhere.

Believe them or not; the choice is yours.

--"If you can't remember, you just can't win"

--"If you can't count and remember, where the strength of your own suit lies, let alone the others, which cards are out and how many are left, don't torture your partner, just give up playing Bridge!!??"

HAND VALUATION : Contents

Honour Points --HP—

*High-card points – A total* *of 40 pts. In the pack*
Ace	4 points
King	3 points
Queen	2 points
Jack	1 point

Distributional Points --DP--

Void	3
Singleton	2
Doubleton	1

And :

--Add 1 pt. for each card over four in trump.

--Add 1 pt. for all 4 Aces.

--Deduct 1 pt. for an Aceless hand.

--Deduct 1 pt. for each unguarded honour.

Quick Tricks --QT—

Each Suit can contain only 2 quick tricks : (A-K or A-K-Q = 2QT)

So no hand can contain more than 8 QT.

A	1 quick trick
A-K	2 “ “
A-Q	1 ½ “ “
K-Q	1
K-x	½

Playing Tricks --PT--

A playing trick is a card which can be expected to win a trick. Generally refers to the number of tricks available from a long suit plus other possibilities to be won.

TRICK TAKING -- BIDDING REQUIREMENTS Contents

*To make*	*Points*
A light opening bid	12 ‑ 13 (HP+DP)
Part‑Score	22 ‑ 24 (HP+DP)
9 Tricks = a No Trump game	25 (26) (HP)
10 Tricks = a Major suit game	(26) 27 -- 28 (HP+DP)
11 Tricks = a Minor suit game	(28) 29 -- 31 (HP+DP)
12 Tricks = a Little Slam	32 ‑ 33 in suit; 33 -- 34 in NT
13 Tricks = a Grand Slam	36 -- 37 or more.

MINIMUM BIDDABLE SUITS: Contents

For an Opening Bid:

-- 4-Card Suits. (Must contain 4 HP)

-- 5-Card Suits. (Any 5‑card suit)

For a Response or Rebid:

-- Q--10--x--x or better

-- Any 5--card suit (x--x--x--x--x)

REBIDDABLE SUITS : Contents

4-card suits : No 4-card suit is rebiddable.

5-card suits : Must be QJxxx or better.

6-card suits : Any 6-card suit is rebiddable.

CHOICE OF SUITS : Contents

(There are alternatives with some choices.)

1-- LONGEST suit before the shorter.

2-- HIGHER--RANKING first with two 5‑card suits;

With two 4-card suits:

A) Cheap one first,

B) If both BLACK, bid CLUB first.

With 3 biddable 4--card suits:

A) Bid the suit below the singleton, unless

the singleton is Club; when open H.

B) Or; middle one first if touching, if not Club.

3‑ STRONGER suit before the weak

OPENINGS: Contents

*Minimum requirement for a LIGHT OPENING according to the EBU is :*
Light	9 ‑ 10 with a 6-card suit 10 -- 12 with two 5-card suit
Normal	12+ ® 20 5-card suit; or two 4-card suit
Very strong	® 20 1--level opening then jump rebid.
4--4--4--1 dist.	13 -- 14
1NT (Weak)	12 -- 14
1NT (Strong)	15 -- 17
2NT	20 -- 22
2§ (Conv.)	23 -- 24
2 of a suit a) Long strong suit; 8 PT. b) Strong TWO--SUITERS c) Dist.pts + High HP; but lacking 5 QT.	15 -- 20+ *According to / or :*

Here I have to mention an understanding, a concept about an opening of 1-level which is :

FIVE-CARD MAJOR : Contents

Some players don't like opening with a 4-card major/suit. If they agree on playing this concept, their bidding of 1ª or 1© guarantees at least a 5-card suit. Although in the main description it suggests that it is not usually applied after partner has passed, it looks as if players have forgotten this, or don't bother about it, or have adopted it according to their own understanding or concept.

In competitive bidding if you know that your partner has got a 5-card suit, your responses get easier, especially with the hands difficult to bid.

But this knowledge will help the opposition as well, and give them some freedom. A major suit opening has some distinct pre-emptive value,

and the opposition won't enter the auction. And you won't be able to collect some information as you would from their bidding, if there is one.

The second thing is that you might wait long time until you have a 5-card Major to bid.

Another thing is that, as the opening bidder waiting for a 5-card major to bid, you will be frequently forced to make prepared, unnatural bids in minor suits.

Personally, I would always like to open with a 5-card suit, and I try to do that; but I can't make this concept a rule.

UNUSUAL OPENINGS: Contents

a) 1 § } (See text...)

b) Short suit } "

-- Pre-Emptive (Barrage) openings:

a) 3 Bids }

b) 4 or 5 Game Bids }

c) 3 NT } (See related texts.)

-- The Acol Opening of 4 NT (See Text.)

-- Opening Bids based on "Balancing"

-- " " " " " "Playing Tricks"

-- " " " " " "Losing Trick Count.LTC" (See texts)

-- 5© or 5ª	These are Conventional bids; Asking A and K of the suit. (See texts)
-- 6© or 6ª
-- 6§ or 6¨

RESPONSES TO 1--LEVEL OPENINGS : Contents

*-- Single Raise :*
1© ‑ 2©	3--5 points + 5-card Trump support.
	5--9 points + 4-card Trump support.

*-- Double Raise :*
1© ‑ 3©	7--10 points + 5-card Trump support.
1§ -- 3§	10--12 points + 4-card Trump support.

*-- Direct Jump to Game :*
1© ‑ 4©	13--14 points or
1© ‑ 4©	5 points + Good Trump support + good shape
1¨ -- 5¨	8 " " " " " "

*-- New suit at 1 level :*
1© -- 1ª	6 points minimum
1© -- 2¨	8 points minimum
1ª -- 2©

*-- Jump Take-Out. “1-level” :*
1© -- 2ª	13--14 points
1© -- 3§

*-- Jump Take-Out. “2 or more level” :*
1© -- 3ª	7+ points and "Long suit in a weak hand".
1© -- 4ª

Here I must say a few words about SPLINTER BID. It is an unusual jump bid (one level higher than what is needed for a forcing bid) which shows a singleton or void in the suit where the jump is made. Guarantees a fit for partner's last named suit, and suggest a Slam. For ex.:

1§ -- 1© or 1§ -- 1¨

4¨ 1ª -- 4©

-- NT Responses :

1© -- 1NT	6 -- 9 Without 4-card Tr.Supp & Balanced hand
1§ -- 1NT	8 --10 " " " " "
1... -- 2NT	11 -- 12 " " " " "
1... -- 3NT	13 - 15 " " " " "
1... -- 4NT	19 -- 20 "Quantitative, not Blackwood"
1... -- 5NT	19 -- 20+ "Conventional" To ask how many of the 3 top trumps opener holds

The last one is not necessarily just after 1 openings. It can be done at any stage of Slam investigation after the trump suit has been agreed; and 4NT hasn't been used. The player who is investigating is sure about the side suits, but is not sure about the top honours of the agreed suit. This is called "NUNES GRAND SLAM FORCE". (Some sources say that it is invented by the Culbertsons, published later by his wife Josephine, and that's why they call it “JOSEPHINE”).

Responses:

6§ = None

6... = One

7... = Two

SWISS CONVENTION: Contents

For only H and S suits.

1© / 1ª -- 4§ : Shows 13--15 HP + at least

4-card good Tr.Sup. and 2 Aces

1© / 1ª -- 4¨ : Shows 13--15 HP + at least

4-card good Tr.Sup. and 3 Aces

After then, if opener bids;

4NT ----> Asking for KINGS on the Blackwood scale i.e.

5C = No Kings etc.

If opener makes a simple conversion to the Major Suit Game responder should pass :

1© --- 4§

4© --- Pass.

BLACKWOOD CONVENTION :

Any strong; Slam try. To ask ACES with 4NT

1... } It can be done at any level of different

2... } -- 4NT biddings by either one of partners.

3... }

Responses :

5§ = No Ace

5¨ = 1 "

5© = 2 "

5ª = 3 "

5§ = 4 Aces

And then; 5NT : To ask KINGS.

Responses :

On the same scale, but;

6NT = 4 Kings.

A jump response on the Aces scale shows a void as well :

4NT ---- 6¨ = 1 Ace + A void

6© = 2 " " " "

IF YOU WANT TO STOP AT 5NT : Contents

1NT -- 3¨ After realizing that 2 Aces are missing

3© -- 4NT according to partner's response and Slam

5¨ -- 5ª is not possible and the hand is more suitable

5NT -- Pas for NT; bid the LOWEST UNBID SUIT

which asks partner to transfer to 5NT on

which you will pass.

If there is an INTERVENTION over 4NT ;

You don't have to show your Aces, but if you want you will response like this:

Responses :

No Ace = Pass.

1 Ace = Bid next higher‑rank

2 Ace = Jump one step to the next higher‑ranking.

For ex.:

Partner Opp. You

4NT 5¨ Pass = No Ace

5© = 1 Ace

5ª = 2 Ace

ROMAN BLACKWOOD CONVENTION :

A different version of Blackwood which was used in the Roman System, and that's why it is called such.

After asking 4NT bid your responses will be like this, according to the genuine form of the system:

5§ No Ace or 3 Aces.

5¨ 1 Ace or 4 Aces

5© 2 Aces of the same colour or rank.

5ª 2 Aces of unlike colour and rank

Following one of these responses; 5NT bid asks for Kings in the same way.

It is almost unnecessary to warn you that there are several variations of this convention as well; like all the others. So, the best thing is to ask your opponents what is theirs.

ROMAN KEY CARD BLACKWOOD :

Another version again. Here, in response to 4NT, the King of trumps is counted as a 5th Ace.

5§ No Ace or 3 Aces.

5¨ 1 Ace or 4 Aces

5© 2 Aces or 5 Aces and denies the trump Queen.

5ª 2 Aces or 5 Aces and the trump Queen.

If the 4NT bidder wants to ask about the trump Queen, after 5§ or 5¨ response, he will bid the cheapest non-trump suit. The responder bids the trump suit at the minimum level if he hasn't got the Queen. But if he has got the Queen he will jump in the trump suit, or will cue-bid a second round control.

GERBER CONVENTION : Contents

1.... -- 4§ Any strong, Slam try.To ask ACES with 4§.

2.... -- 4§ It can be done at any level of different biddings

3.... -- 4§ by either one of partners.

Responses: 4¨ = No Ace

4© = 1 Ace

4ª = 2 Ace

4NT= 3 Ace

5§ = 4 Ace

And then;

5§ : To ask KINGS. Responses are on the same scale.

Escalation method for KINGS :

Kings are asked by a follow-on bid from the Ace response. Next higher rank to the response asks for Kings.

i.e.;

........................... -- 4§ (Asking Aces)

4© (1 Ace) -- 4ª (Asking Kings)

4NT = No King

5§ = 1 King

5¨ = 2 "

5© = 3 "

5ª = 4 "

According to partnership agreement both GERBER and BLACKWOOD can be used. Gerber after NT bids; Blackwood at other times especially when Club has been bid as a suit.

You can make a mix use of them as well. i.e.;

After 4§ bid; instead of 5§, you can ask for Kings with 4NT to keep level one down.

1NT OPENINGS AND RESPONSES : Contents

-- STRONG NT :

Opener Responder

1NT (15--17)

2NT = 8--9

3NT = 9+

-- WEAK NT :

Opener Responder

1NT (12--14)

2NT = 11--12

3NT = 12+

Opener Responder

1NT

2 of a suit

= WEAK TAKE OUT

Weak hand with 5 or 6-card suit

Opener Responder

1NT

2¨ or 2©

= JACOBY TRANSFER BIDS

To ask partner to bid the Major suit of your choice -See text below-

Opener Responder

1NT

2§

= STAYMAN

Major suit fit searching / finding.

*Opener Responder*
1NT	3 of a suit	= Shows Game values

Opener Responder

1NT

3§

= BARON

Any strong-- asking for a possible suit fit;

could be a Slam try on suits

Opener Responder

1NT

3¨

= FLINT

Weak hand, long majors, +DP

Opener Responder

1NT

4© or 4ª

5§ or 5¨

= Unbalanced hand, 7+ card suit

*Opener Responder*
1NT	4§	= GERBER

JACOBY TRANSFER BIDS : Contents

The idea is to make the strong hand declarer / player. Because it is usually advantageous for the lead to come up to the stronger hand which is going to be concealed.

There are different versions of TRANSFER BIDS; but I think Oswald Jacoby is the most widely accepted and used one.

As it is a response used at the 2-level to 1NT opening bids, it can be used at the 3-level to 2NT openings as well.

2¨ ® Shows Hearts and asks opener to bid 2©

2© ® Shows Spades and asks opener to bid 2ª

As well as it helps the strong, concealed hand to be declarer, it helps the intermediate strength hands, not really suitable to play in NT, but suitable to play a major suit game, to be bid a bit more easily. Even a Major suit contract can be reached according to the strength and the shape of the responder's hand.

After your asking for a transfer bid and partner's response, if you make another suit's bid; that one is natural and it means that you have a 2-suiter hand.

There are methods of extending transfers to the minor suits:

a) 2ª ® Shows Clubs and asks opener to bid 3§

3§ ® Shows Diamonds and asks opener to bid 3¨

b) 2ª is used to show a minor 2-suiter in a game going hand with Slam interest

c) 2ª is used to show a game going hand with one long minor suit and Slam interest.

How to defend against this type of low-level artificial bids depends on your partnership's understanding and desicion.

These can be used :

-- An unusual NT to show minor suits.

-- Double to show the suit doubled, and the non-touching suit.

-- Cue-bid in responder's real suit to show the remaining possible 2-suited combination (suits of the same colour).

STAYMAN CONVENTION Contents

(Fit Finding on Major Suits):

1NT -- 2§ : 8--11 HP + Shape. Asking for a 4-card Major suit fit.

With ONE : Bid it at the 2--level

With TWO : Bid the HEARTS first

With NONE : Bid 2¨.

After 2¨ response; 3¨ asks opener's better Major. (Preferring length)

Extended Stayman:

2NT (20--22) ---- 3§ (4--5)

Same order as above.

BARON CONVENTION :

Any strong; asking for a possible suit fit; even Slam could be possible.

1NT or 2NT ---- 3§

Opener will bid his 4-card suit in ascending order;

3¨ ; 3© ; 3ª or,

3NT : if his only 4-card suit is CLUBS.

According to partnership agreement BARON or EXTENDED STAYMAN could be used.

FLINT CONVENTION --Simple-- :

1NT or 2NT ---- 3¨

Transfer convention. Shows long, weak MAJOR SUIT in very weak hand with no game ambition. Requests opener to transfer to 3©. Then, if responder has long Hearts will pas; or with long Spades will transfer to 3ª; enabling the partnership to play no higher than 3‑level.

Could be used for Minor Suits as well; especially after 2NT opening:

2NT -- 3¨ ] Weak hand suitable only

3© -- 4¨ ] : for the lowest available

-- 4§ ] Minor Suit contract

or;

2NT -- 3¨ Shows genuine strong Diamonds, with mild

3© -- 3NT : Slam ambitions. Stronger than the above hand.

FLINT CONVENTION. --Full-- :

2NT -- 3¨ : If responder can provide a little bit of help,

3© -- 4© positive responses can be given at the second

(3ª -- 4ª) round and if opener has a maximum hand a Game can be achieved.

or ;

2NT -- 3¨

3© -- 3ª

4ª

or ;

2NT -- 3¨

3ª -- 4©

or ;

2NT -- 3¨

3NT -------------> Shows 2 strong 4-card Majors. Then;

4© or 4ª

Responses to 1NT in

TRAFFIC LIGHTS :

2¨, 2©, 2ª : Red

2NT : Amber

2§ (Stayman) : Green

3©, 3ª : Green

4©, 4ª : Red

Here, I think I have to mention a convention which is becoming widely used by opposition to defend against 1NT openings no matter it is Strong or Weak NT. It is;

ASTRO Contents

and suggests 2-suiter hand which has at least 9-cards in the 2 suits. These suits must have some sort of solidity, especially if they are vulnerable.

After a 1NT opening an overcall of

2§ shows Hearts and a Minor Suit.

2¨ shows Spades and another suit.

Responses:

· 2 of the 'anchor' major shows at least 3-cards support but No game ambitions.

· 3 of the 'anchor' major shows at least 4-cards support with Game Invitation.

· 4 of the 'anchor' major is a natural game bid.

· Pass shows a weak hand, and a long suit (probably 6-cards) in the Minor bid by partner.

· 2NT : is artificial and forcing. Shows some support for the anchor major and might suggest some good hand with game prospects but doesn't guarantee a further bid.

· Lacking all these possibilities, he bids the intermediate suit. If this suit is Astro bidder's own suit he will normally pass.

A variation of Astro is PINPOINT ASTRO,

which identifies the 2-suiter:

2§ shows Hearts and Clubs.

2¨ shows Hearts and Diamonds.

2© shows Hearts and Spades.

2ª shows Spades and a Minor Suit.

=====================================

Something similar is LANDY against 1NT opening to use as a defence. It asks partner for a take-out with emphasis on the Major Suits. It shows at least 5-4 in the Majors, and probably short in one or both minors. It is usually up to 15 points, but might be higher. In response 2¨ asks for the longer Major, the other bids are natural.

=====================================

STRONG "TWO OF A SUIT" OPENINGS Contents

Either we can say; 17 HP + 5 losers, or we can describe it in a longer way:

"Strong Two Openings" are made:

--- With just high HP : 20--22 ,

as well as lower HP : 13--19 , if you have:

· Long, strong Single--Suited hands with 8 Playing--Tricks

· Strong Two--Suiters,

· Strong distributional hands with high HP but lacking 5 QT required for a 2C opening.

** Strong Two's are forcing for ONE ROUND.

** Negative response is 2NT.

If a positive response can be obtained they become GAME FORCING.

After 2NT negative response if opener;

---makes a jump bid in a new suit,

---makes a REVERSE BID (higher rank than the opening bid)

they are GAME FORCING again.

Responses to "2 of a suit openings."

2ª }

2© } -- 2NT : Negative response

2¨ }

Positive responses :

-- Single Raise : 4--6 ; Trump Supp.+at least ONE ACE or VOID.

2ª ‑ 3ª

-- Double Raise : --10 ; Trump Supp. but NO ACE or VOID

2ª -- 4ª

3ª -- 3NT : 10--12 ; Balanced, ACELESS hand.

‑ TAKE-OUTS;

2¨ -- 2© : 4--5 (or 1QT); & biddable suit

2© -- 3¨ : 6--8 (or 1,5QT);& biddable suit

2ª -- 4©(Jump) : 10--13 ; Solid self supporting suit.

"2 OF A SUIT " OPENINGS

BASED ON PLAYING TRICKS:

In some hands lacking HP for a 2§ opening bid but has a good 6-card suit or a 2--suiter with high cards in at least 2 suits, which provides at least 8 Playing--Trick and promising a possible Slam; you can open at the 2--level.

2ª , 2© , 2¨ : 8 Playing--Tricks with 13--17 (19) HP

Responses :

-- 2NT : Negative (Conv.); Lacking 1,5 QT

-- Single Raise : 3-card fit + usually an ACE

-- Double Raise : 10 HP + good tr. but no Controls

-- 3NT : 10--11 HP + Balanced hand

-- A suit : Biddable and usually headed by A, K or QJ

2§ OPENING BIDS AND RESPONSES :

Showing 23--24 HP and asking for a Game or Slam.

2§ -- 2¨ : First "Negative" response and then,

2NT : Second "Negative" response, denying 7--9 HP

If after 2§ --- 2¨ response, opener continues;

2NT----> : Shows 23--24 HP

3NT----> : Shows 25+ HP

2© , 2ª-> : Shows a Game--going hand with 5 QT.

3§--> : Shows Genuine C suit

3© , 3ª-> : Jump rebid asks responder to CUE-BID any ACE he may hold by any chance;

with direct bidding of the suit. If responder can not show and support

anything will use "Second Negative" 2NT or 3NT response to keep the bidding open.

If after 2§ -- 2¨ response, opener bids 2NT

2§ -- 2¨

2NT-- PASS : This is the only time responder may PASS.

On the other hand if responder has biddable suit, good shape can make positive supporting responses; even with less points.

Among these responses :

2§ -- 3© : An immediate jump response shows a Solid and Self‑Supporting trump suit (eg.: AKQ9854)

2§ -- 2¨ : A jump responder's rebid following his 2¨ negative,

2© -- 3ª shows a Solid Trump Suit missing ACE. (eg.: KQJ1085)

Stayman can be used on 2§ opening according to partnership agreement.

2§ -- 2¨

2NT-- 3§ --> : 3--4 HP and shape for Major suits.

2NT OPENINGS AND RESPONSES :

2NT : 20--22 HP

Direct raises :

-- 3NT : 4--10

-- 4NT : 11--12

-- 6NT : 13--14

-- 5NT : 15--16 Invitation for Grand Slam.

Suit responses to 2NT openings :

*Opener Responder*
2NT	3©, 3ª	4 + with long suit
2NT	4©, 4ª	Mild Slam invitation
2NT	4§ (Gerber)	Any strong ; Slam possible
2NT	3§ (Baron)	Any strong ; asking for a possible suit fit.
2NT	3¨ (Flint)	Transfer convention. Long, weak Major.

==============================

UNUSUAL OPENINGS : Contents

1§ opening:

In hands with no biddable suit but 13--15+ HP; 1§ opening (may be a 3‑card suit) asks partner to bid his best suit or to show his stregth.

Responses:

*Opener Responder*
1§	1¨	0--7 Negative
	1©, 1ª	8--10 + 4-card major
	2¨, 2§	8--10 + 5-card minor
	1NT	8--10 + Balanced hand

*Opener Responder*
1§	2©, 2ª	11--12
	2NT	11--12 + Balanced hand
	3¨, 3§	12--13
	3NT	13--15 + Balanced hand

OPENING WITH THE SHORTEST SUIT

(PREPARED BID)

This means that you make an opening bid in a suit in which you don't really want to play. Especially, when not vulnerable, for the players who like neither opening nor playing on 4-card suits; in hands with high HP (13--15) but not in shape for either suits or NT.

eg.:

ª © ¨ §

AK8 Q975 J4 K632 (13)

KJ82 KJ73 Q A764 (14)

In both hands you can open Diamond. If your partner raises it your rebid will be NT. If your partner makes a Take‑Out into another suit you can raise him.

With these 2 Unusual Openings, especially with the second "Shortest Suit" one, you must be very careful not to be dishonest or unethical and use it on very rare occasions on the condition that you have announced it from the beginning of the match.

This system can be easily misused and is being misused; like many other conventions. That's why ACOL tries to control it. ACOL doesn't allow bidders to bid with singleton or doubleton minors, as examples above, to make a Prepared Bid. You should have at least 3 cards in the suit, and one of them should be a high honour (minimum of a Q).

Although ACOL accepts limited circumstances where prepared bids can be used, it also states that it is a violation of the natural quality of ACOL bidding, because you are opening with a suit in which you don't want to play.

The players of this system usually use it for the Club Suit and call it PHONEY CLUB. They are mostly the users of 5-Card Majors system.

When you ask them, almost every pair gives different values; varying from 12 to 17; or 12-19; or starts from 13 or 15. Like 13/15-17 ; or 13/15-19.

They describe different situations as well. Some say "No intention for Club Suit", some say "It could be Club Suit, in that case he is going to repeat it".

In reality ACOL uses 1§ or 1¨ in only 2 situations:

1) If you are using a Strong NT (15--17) and you have a balanced hand worth 12--14 points. You can't pass this hand but can't open 1NT either. On the other hand, it is not strong enough to open with a 4-card major, because it hasn't got a sound rebid at the 2-level.

2) If you are playing a Weak NT (12--14) and you have a balanced hand worth 15 or 16 points. And your 4-card suit is too poor quality to bid at the first round, so you could bid NT at the second round to show 15--16.

ACOL dictates a rule as well:

After making a prepared minor suit opening, your rebid must be in No Trumps, unless responder chooses to bid your 4-card suit. Then you will act according to your strength.

PRE--EMPTIVE "BARRAGE" OPENING BIDS

3--Bids : 6--9 HP or 6--7 PT; one long suit (7/8--card)

in a weak hand.

Game Bids : Slightly stronger than 3-bids.

4 (Major) 10--11 HP. With a strong, long suit. Even Slam is possible.

5 (Minor)

3 NT : Gambling 3 NT.

A long solid Minor with at most a couple of hopes in other suits. If it is doubled and responder does not have stoppers in three suits he will bid 4§, showing weakness. And if opener's real suit is not Club and is, for example D, he will bid 4¨.

Responses in general :

Depends on HP, PT and shape:

With 6--10 : Pass or weak support

With 12--16 : Raise to game.

A Take--out : Into a Major is a game force; (with 16--19)

A Take--out : Into a Minor is a Slam try; (with 19--20)

And with a balanced hand; take-out into 3NT

Countering Pre-emptive opening bids :

-- Over--call : 17--18 , with a long suit.

-- Double : 17--18 , with a strong hand and damaging

(Optional) holding in the opponent's suit.

-- 3NT : 17--18 , with a strong hand, short in the suit opened.

(Optional) Asking partner to take-out

into his own best suit. Or if he has a

good stopper in the suit opened, will pass.

How to use Double or 3NT depends on partnership agreement.

-- Cue--Bid : 20--21, with an extremely strong hand.

Asking partner to show his best suit.

LOWER MINOR CONVENTION and FISHBEIN

can be used as a defence against pre-emptive 3-bids. A bid in the cheapest available suit is a demand for a take-out. The advantage of this system is that other calls of Double or 3NT can be used as natural bids. But it makes the bid of 4§ difficult, resulting in loss of manoeuvrability. But this might be negligible anyway. This convention doesn't apply to a player sitting under the 3-bidder; because he would use Double or 3NT for take-out.

Fishbein is exactly the same one, the only difference is that the player sitting under the 3-bidder too can use it.

This convention can be used against Weak 2-bids also.

As usual in all conventions, there are several interpretations and applications in this one as well.

-- 4NT : Over pre-emptive 4-bids.

Usually asks for a take‑out into minors.

Acol opening of 4NT :

On rare occasions if opener wants to know which particular ACE is held by his partner;

4NT ---> asks possible ACE--Holding

Responses :

5§ = No Ace

5¨ = Ace of Diamond

5© = " " Heart

5ª = " " Spade

6§ = " " Club

5NT= 2 Aces.

5NT opening :

A very rare opening bid, showing a balanced hand which can guarantee 11 tricks. Responder is asked to raise the bidding one level for each Ace, King, or Queen which he holds.

5© or 5ª opening bid :

Indicates a hand of unusual power and asks responder to bid 6 with either the ACE or the KING of the suit; even if it is singleton; and to bid 7 if holding both. (No other honour is relevant.)

6© or 6ª : Asks to bid 7 with ACE or KING.

6¨ or 6§ : same as above.

So called "Scientific or Semi-Scientific" conventions of WEAK TWO BIDS and MULTI-COLOURED 2 DIAMOND can be included into PRE-EMPTIVE Bids. I don't play these conventions and can't give you very detailed descriptions. But I don't think that everyone who plays these can give you a real detailed description either; everybody plays differently.

I will try to summarise and simplify them into a few sentences; so that people who are interested can go to more detailed sources.

WEAK TWO BIDS: Contents

A suit opening of 2, other than Clubs has been used as a pre-emptive bid. Interestingly it is not a new technique/ new science. A prototype of it was used in Auction Bridge, and then adopted in the Wanderbilt Club System. Van Vleck, Howard Schenken developped and introduced their own versions. Then Modern American System, and Neapolitan, and Blue Team Club systems used it in their interpretation.

It being so, there are different understandings, and valuations. You will have to adopt your own understanding and announce it.

Some authorities require;

-- A 6 card suit ; about 8-11 points - mainly concentrated in the suit bid.

-- A 6 card suit ; about 6-12 points

-- A 6 card suit ; about 5-9 points

Position at the table and Vulnerability may be a factor in deciding whether to make a weak two-bid.

Responses : Vary a lot. The best thing is to ask opponents before game/competition starts, if they play Weak Two, and if so what sorts of responses they use.

Defence :

Standard procedure is to bid over as if it is a One-bid opening

-- Double : for take-out.

-- 2NT : If you have a Strong NT opening hand. If a bit stronger 3NT (of course with stoppers on the suit bid).

-- According to the value of the suit opened in weak two; an over call of 2 or 3 of a suit should be considered as natural. As if you could bid it anyway according to your hand's valuation.

MULTI-COLOURED 2¨ (2 Diamond) :

This convention started in the early 70s and that was when I gave up playing Bridge because I thought that I couldn't close down my pharmacy to learn, to practise these, and then play Bridge; as lots of other new conventions were pouring in as well. To make things worse, everybody was trying to create a new convention, because the ones pouring in were creating difficulties.

As the name suggest it carries MULTI understandings, MULTI applications. Let's try with some:

-- Shows a weak two-bid in one of the major suits.

-- Shows a strong 2NT type opening.

-- Shows a strong 2 bid in one of the minor suits.

-- Shows a very strong 3-suited hand worth 17-24 points.

Responses ;

Assume that the opening was based on a weak 2-bid, but there is a slim possibility of a strong hand :

2© Sign off in opener's major, whatever it is.

2ª Sign off in Spades, game invitation in Hearts.

3§ 3¨ Sign off in the minor suit bid.

3© Sign off in Hearts, game invitation in Spades.

3NT Blackwood

4§ 4¨ No loser in minor suits in support of opener's major, whatever it is.

4© willingness to play game in opener's major, whatever it is..

4ª desire to play 4 Spades even if opener's suit is Hearts.

A 2NT response asks opener to describe his hand more.

Opener's Rebids :

3§ Shows weak 2-Heart bid - maximum strength

3¨ Shows weak 2-Spades bid - maximum strength

3© Shows weak 2-Heart bid - minimum strength

3ª Shows weak 2-Spades bid - minimum strength

From 3NT through 4© shows 17-24 points and 4-4-4-1 hand. And each bid shows a singleton in the next higher suit.

Then Responder makes new bids; then opener makes new rebids, then ....... goes on, and goes on.

I think this is enough; if I try to continue I have to write page after page. You will have to do your own home-work, and ask your opponents before the game. Sometimes it becomes so complicated that every Multi 2D player creates his own version to make it even more unbearable, unmanageable for themselves as well.

Defence :

Until it is proven otherwise, most possibly opening 2¨ is based on a Weak 2 Bid of either Major; because the strong hands mentioned above are not frequent. They might be trying to stop your part score or even game. With this good will, enter the pool as soon as possible if you have got a reasonable hand and make your bid. If they have got a strong hand, you never know, you might stop them.

That is all from me, the rest depends on your desicion and how you feel about it.

BENJAMIN CONVENTION

This convention can be included into Weak Two Bids, but it can have strong 2-bids value as well depending on the situation, and the suit. So, it brings Weak 2-bids in the Major suits into ACOL.

2© or 2ª : These major suit opening bids are WEAK. they show 6--11 points and a 6-card / long suit.

2§ opening bid shows a normal Acol one-round forcing bid in an unspecified suit, and promises at least 8-playing tricks.

Negative response to this is 2¨ ; and any other response is supposed to be positive and is forcing to game.

2¨ opening is equivalent to an Acol 2§ is forcing to game and almost guaratees game.

Negative response is 2© ; and after a sequence of 2¨ -- 2© -- 2NT can be passed, which shows 23-24 points.

S E C O N D R O U N D B I D S Contents

Your rebid could be one of those according to the response; and whether you are on minimum or maximum points. And the shape of hand is important as well.

If you

opened

on:

---------------------------

10--12

Got the

response

options:

-----------------------------------

4--10

--Single raise

--A suit at the

one-level

--1NT

11--14

--2NT; 3NT

--Jump raise

--Double jump

--A new suit

14--15

--Delayed game

raise

16+

--Single jump

in a new suit

--3NT

Your rebid

options:

----------------------------------------------

--A 5-card suit again

--A suitable second suit

--Single raise for partner

--3NT

--Pass

--Preference

--Sign-off

--Pass

--One--level raise

--Sign-off

--Preference

--3NT

If you

opened

on:

--------------------------

13--15

Got the

response

options:

---------------------------------

4--10

--Single raise

--A suit at the

one-level

--1NT

11--14

--2NT; 3NT

--Jump raise

--Double jump

--A new suit

14--16+

--Delayed game

raise

--Single jump

in a new suit

--3NT

Your rebid

options:

----------------------------------------------

--A 5-card suit again

--A suitable second suit

--2NT

--Double raise in your

first suit

--A new suit at the

3-level

--2NT or 3NT

--Game force; jump take

-out in another suit

--Game in your suit

--Raise partner to 3 or

game

--Same responses above

and may be Slam

try according to

maximums and

shape

If you

opened

on:

--------------------------

16--18

Got the

response

options:

----------------------------------

4--10

--Single raise

--A suit at the

one-level

--1NT

11--14

--2NT; 3NT

--Jump raise

--Double jump

--A new suit

14--16+

--Delayed game

raise

--Single jump

in a new suit

--3NT

Your rebid

options:

----------------------------------------------

--2NT or 3NT

--Jump to 3 in your or

partner's suit

--A new suit at 3-level

--Game in your suit or

partner's

--3NT

--Game in your or

partner's suit

--4NT ; 4C

--Same responses above

and 5NT

If you

opened

on:

--------------------------

19--(20?)

(Upper limit

for 1-level

opening)

19--(20?)

Got the

response

options:

----------------------------------

11--14

--2NT; 3NT

--Jump raise

--Double jump

--A new suit

14--16+

--Delayed game

raise

--Single jump

in a new suit

--3NT

Your rebid

options:

----------------------------------------------

--You must look for a

SMALL SLAM

--You must look for a

GRAND SLAM

However 16--19 (20?) is at the limit of 1-level opening and you will show your strength in your rebid by jumping, do not forget that if you have suitable shape and PT, you can open at the 2-level (see 2-level openings.)

As a responder in ROUND TWO :

If you are :

Under 11 --- Stay below the 3-level:

--Pass;

--Rebid your suit;

--Raise opener's suit;

--Give preference

11--12 --- Try for Game:

--Show a second suit;

--Bid 2NT;

--Raise opener's suit.

13‑14 --- Make sure of Game:

--Jump to Game;

--Bid a new suit at 3‑level

16 + --- TRY FOR SLAM.

=======================================

Now; I think we should mention here 3 more bids as well which can be quite useful and important.

TRIAL BID : Contents

A game suggestion, made by bidding a new suit after a major suit fit has been located:

South : 1© North : 2©

3§

N‑S have provisionally agreed to play a Heart contract, although a final contract of 3NT is not completely excluded. However, it is completely impossible that the right contract could be Clubs, so the Club bid can only be an exploring manoeuver. If North has no interest in game, he signs off with 3 Hearts. If he wants to accept the invitation, he bids 4H or 3NT. As a rare alternative, he may bid an unbid suit in which he has strength, as a move toward 3NT.

The usual practice is for South to make his trial bid in a suit in which he needs support, so it will generally contain at least 3 cards and at least 2 losers. The responder therefore takes his holding in the trial bid suit into account when making the decision whether to bid game.

FOURTH SUIT FORCING:

If responder's rebid names a fourth suit, the bid is forcing in standard methods. Many players employ this as a waiting bid when no natural bid is available, and ACOL treats this as a convention. The opener assumes that responder is weak in the forth suit, and must not bid NT unless he guards the suit. The bid is often appropriate with 2 or 3 losers in the fourth suit:

North holding Bidding :

ª: A3 South: North:

©: 754 1ª 2§

¨: 972 2¨ 2©

§: AKJ65

The fourth suit is forcing for one round only, and promises a minimum of 10‑11 points. Responder seldom wishes to bid the fourth suit in a natural sense, because he would then be able to bid NT.

CUE-BID :

A forcing bid in a suit in which the bidder cannot wish to play. Cue‑bidding is an extremly broad subject. There are hundreds of situations in which low--level cue--bids can be used effectively, and most of them are impossible to classify because they occur on the second or third round of bidding. Therefore even trying to simplify this subject is a difficult task.

Still; let's say it is applied to:

1) bids in the opponents' suit at any level.

When a player bids a suit which has originally been called by his opponents, he is said to make a cue-bid. A cue-bid is not made in the expectation of actually playing in the relevant suit; it is made for exploratory or control showing purposes.

For ex:

S: 1ª W: 2© N: 3ª E: Pass

4©

Here, N‑S are already committed to playing in at least a game in Spades, so 4© must be a Slam try, showing control of the Heart suit. First‑ round control of the Hearts (Ace or void) is virtually guaranteed.

2) bids to show controls at a high level after a suit has been agreed directly or by inference.

And again a Slam invitation is implied if it is made when the partnership is already committed to a game contract.

For ex.

N: 1ª S: 3ª | N: 1§ S: 1©

4¨ | 3© 4¨

In each case the side committed to game, and a suit has been firmly agreed. The final bid is a Slam suggestion, and the cuebidder's partner acts accordingly. If his hand is completely unsuitable for Slam purposes, he signs off in the agreed trump suit at the lowest level. If he is willing to cooperate in a Slam venture, he can bid a Slam directly, or take some other strong action which will take the bidding past the game level.

OPENING BIDS BASED ON

---LTC--- L O S I N G T R I C K C O U N T Contents

LTC is to estimate the TRICK-TAKING capacity of your hand and two hands in your partnership.

It applies ONLY to TRUMP contracts.

BASIC COUNT OF LOSERS :

Do not count more than 3 losers in any one suit

Void or Singleton Ace : No--loser

Any other singleton or Ax ‑ Kx : 1--loser

Any other doubleton : 2--losers

In each 3 or more card suit : 1--loser for

each missing A, K, Q.

A suit headed by AJ10 : 1--loser

but, AJ8 : 2--losers

a) Axx }

b) Kxx } ----------------------® : 2--losers

c) Qxx }

Here (a) is better 2-losers than (b).

And (c) must be counted 3-losers unless ;

‑ It is the proposed trump suit

‑ The suit has been bid by partner

‑ The Q is supported by the J

‑ The Q is balanced by an A in another suit.

The maximum numbers of losers in a hand, counting 3 in each suit, is 12. The maximum in the partnership hands is 24. But the first 6 tricks do not count towards a contract. If this "6" --Book-- is subtracted from 24 we get a figure of 18 to work on.

This is called “RULE OF EIGHTEEN”.

and is used to find out how many tricks you can expect from your partnership hands, according to the totalling number of losers in both hands. Like this :

Either player, once a fit has been found, adds his own losers to the number indicated by his partner's bidding. He subtracts the total from 18, and the answer tells him how many tricks over the "Book" the combined hands are likely to take, in other words, what level of contract can be achieved.

For example, after an opening bid responder thinks that opener has 7 losers. If his losers are 9, this will make both hands having;

7 losers (opener) + 9 losers (responder) = 16 losers

and ; 18 --- 16 = 2---level of contract.

And he will bid 2 of that suit, or a new suit at the 1--level.

THE INITIAL COUNT :

An opening bid of 1 is made with:

a) Not more than 7 losers. Sometimes with 8 losers but

good controls.(3QT or better)

b) Adequate high--card values, including 2 defensive tricks

c) A sound rebid.

As a responder :

- Holding 4 or more trumps,the responder counts his

losers in the same way as the opener.

- Holding 3 trumps only, he counts an extra loser in a

short suit. Thus, allowing for 7 losers in the opener's hand, acts as follows:

‑‑ With 9 losers : Raise to 2 (9+7=16 and 18--16=2)

‑‑ With 8 losers : Raise to 3 (8+7=15 and 18--15=3)

‑‑ With 7 losers : Raise to 4 (7+7=14 and 18--14=4)

and insist on a Game if the suit is a major.

In a new suit :

-‑ With not more than 9 losers : Bid at the 1--level

-‑ With not more than 8 losers : Bid at the 2--level

-LTC- S E C O N D R O U N D C O U N T

Opener : According to the nature of his own hand and the response he has got, he can then judge whether to pass, to bid Game or Slam direct; or to make a try.

‑ Pass or neutral rebid shows : 7 losers

‑ A trial bid shows : 6 losers + good controls

‑ Jump rebid shows : 5 losers

‑ A reverse rebid at 2--level shows : 5 losers (Sometimes 6)

‑ A reverse rebid at 3--level shows : 5 losers (max) or less

‑ Direct Game bid shows : 5 losers + good controls

Responder :

‑ A jump rebid in his own suit shows : 6 losers

‑ A reverse at 2--lev. shows : 6/7 losers

‑ A reverse at 3--lev. shows : 6 losers (Max.)

LTC can not properly be applied on a partnership basis before a suit fit has been located. And LTC loses some of its accuracy in the higher ranges.

O V E R -- C A L L S : Contents

Since an Over‑call is to bid over an opponent's opening bid, generally speaking you need more strength than a light opening bid if only points are considered.

But for tactical reasons this can be lowered quite considerably.

Let's see the normal assumptions:

* The minimum Over‑call when not vulnerable can be 8--10 HP plus a good 5--card suit.

* When vulnerable should be almost a minimum normal opening bid.

* Maximum for a Simple Over--call (Vulnerable or not vulnerable) is about 16 HP.

Simple Over--call :

1© -- 1ª } : 8‑13; according to shape

1© -- 2¨ }

Jump Over-call - Normal level :

1© -- 2ª } : 15--20; according to shape

1© -- 3¨ }

Jump Over-call - 2 or more level :

1© -- 3ª } : 6--8/9; Pre--emptive. Weak hand but long suit.

1© -- 4¨ }

1NT Over‑call : 15--16+ ; and balanced hand.

A response of 2§ over 1NT Over--call is negative and weak Take--out, not Stayman.

If responder wishes to explore for a 4‑4 major suit fit he makes a Cue--Bid in the opponent's suit.

i.e. 1¨ -- 1NT -- .. -- 2§ 2¨ here, asking for a Major fit.

2¨ ?

2NT Over--call over 1NT :

1NT -- 2NT : 16--17; Acol Conventional bid, instead of a Take

out Double. (Game forcing). Shows powerful

Two-Suiter. Partner will show his best suit.

Over--call in opponent's suit, CUE--BID :

1© -- 2© : 17--20; Game forcing. Again instead of a Take-out double

Shows a powerful hand, but not necessarily

in the suit bid. Demands partner to make a

Take-out. And partner will show suits in ascending order.

UNUSUAL NT CONVENTION : Contents

An Over--call which can not be understood as a natural bid; and is a form of Take--out Double on the hands lacking HP but having a shape. Generally 2--suited hands, usually the Minor suits, and asks partner to choose. If opponents have bid a minor, the Unusual NT asks for the 2 lower unbid suits.

Opponents You

1© -- 1ª -- 2NT : Asks for choice between § and ¨

1ª -- 2¨ -- 2NT : Asks for choice between © and § (unbid suits.)

1¨.... --- 2NT : Asks for choice between © and § (two lower unbid suits)

1ª -- 2© } -- 4NT : Asks for choice between § and ¨ (a possible sacrifice.)

3© -- 4ª }

B A L A N C I N G : Contents

If the opponents stop at a low level in a suit, you, as the fourth seat, can enter the auction even with modest values, either to push them into a difficult level or to play a part‑score for your side. This type of bidding is known as Protective Bidding or Balancing.

For ex. after an opening bid made by one of your opponents -LHO-; if your and his partner "Pass" you must think about "Balance of strength" both sides have and bid accordingly. You can bid a biddable suit with 10HP or 1NT showing about 13.

SACRIFICE BIDDINGS : Contents

Especially when not vulnerable if you think that vulnerable opponents will make a Game or Slam, scoring highly, it is much cheaper for you to go down several tricks. And then you can make a "Sacrifice Bidding".

ALL DOUBLING SITUATIONS : Contents

1) FOR TAKE-OUT :

A double of an opening bid of ONE in a suit is for Take--out and asks partner to show his best and longest suit, rather than tell him.

-- We can say that general rule is "Any double of a suit bid below game level is for Take‑out"; if the doubler's partner has never made a bid.

eg. 1§ -- Dbl.

1© -- Pass -- 2© -- Dbl.

-- The double of an opening Pre-emptive bid (below game level) could also be for Take--out according to partnership agreement.

3© -- Dbl.

Minimum is 12; normal 13--14 and must contain :

-- Support for all three unbid suits.

-- Shortage in the suit doubled,

-- A good suit with support in a second suit.

It is made ;

-- At the first available opportunity.

-- Partner has not bid. (Other than to pass.)

For ex., 1¨ -- Dbl., shows at least opening bid strength and it may be much stronger.

With a stronger hand, 16--17, it is possible to double without support for all three suits.

Responses to Take-out doubles :

Any response shows : 0--9

0--2 Very weak hand :

-- Weakness bid of the next higher suit

3--4 Slightly stronger hand :

-- Bid any suit biddable (At least 4-card)

4--7 Stronger and balanced hand:

-- One level jump in your suit. (5-card)

-- 1NT with balanced hand and stoppers.

8--12 Strong hand :

-- Double jump in your suit; showing strength and length.

-- 2NT, showing balance + stoppers and 11-12 HP.

13--14 Very strong hand :

-- CUE-BID; showing a desire to go to Game which is THE ONLY FORCING BID.

(Cue--bid does not guarantee a control on opponents' suit.)

NEGATIVE DOUBLE :

This is a form of Take-out double, not penalties. It is known as "SPUTNIK" as well, because it came on the stage at the time of the first Russian satellite (1957). It is used after your partner has opened the bidding and the RHO (right hand opponent) intervenes with a suit call, to show values and usually 4-cards in an unbid major. For example after your partner's opening bid, if RHO bids Hearts and you double it, this means that you have support for Spades; likewise if you double Spades, it means that you have support for Hearts; most possibly as a 4-card suit which can't be freely bid on its own as a 4-card suit.

Your partner / the opening bidder will assess the situation, and either will make a bid accordingly, or if he likes the double as penalties will pass.

It can be made at the 1-level with as little as 7 to 10 points with a hand with no obvious call. And it can be made up to the level of 3© . For example; your partner 1ª -- 3© (opponent--weak jump overcall); and you double. This shows /all round values but not good support for your partner's spade.

Again, you have to consider that there are several variations and there are several interpretations of every variation.

People playing Negative Double say that it makes it easier to bid awkward hands, for example with 8, 9, 10 points but no proper looking 4-card suit, and weak with the intervening bid. If there wasn't an intervention you might have bid NT or even your poor quality 4-card suit. What are you going to do now? Use Negative Double !

I asked my friend who plays Negative Double. " Don't you lose the chance of doubling a bid for penalties? Doesn't your partner misunderstand you? And how do you distinguish between these two situation? " He is a joke loving person with a strong sense of humour. And I know he keeps living the situations in my question. He replied : “We use Alert Card for our partner !”

2) FOR PENALTIES :

-- The double of an opening NT is for penalties which shows 16 or more HP. If the partner has a completely useless hand which can't give any help to his partner but has a long suit, he might take the double out to that suit (Optional agreem.)

-- A double made after partner has made a bid is for penalties.

SOME GUIDES FOR PENALTY DOUBLES: Contents

A) How many winning Trumps do you need for a double?

If you intend a penalty double of a suit below game, add your expected trump tricks to the number of tricks the opponents are trying to win. If the answer is 10 or more, you have the right number of trump tricks. If the answer is below 10, your double is not sound. And some more requirements for a successful penalty double at a low-level are :

1) Strength and length in their trump suit.

2) A misfit with your partner’s suit

3) 20 or more HCP between you and partner.

For ex:

-- Doubles at the 1-level : 10-7 tricks = 3 trump WINNERS needed

-- Doubles at the 2-level : 10-8 tricks = 2 trump WINNERS needed

-- Doubles at the 3-level : 10-9 tricks = 1 trump WINNERS needed

====================

B) How many Trumps do you need for a double?

If you intend a penalty double below game, add the number of trumps to the number of tricks the opponents are trying to win. If the answer is 12 or more, you have enough trumps to play for penalties. If the answer is below 12, you do not have enough trumps. And some more requirements are just the same as the above situation:

1) Strength and length in their trump suit.

2) A misfit with your partner’s suit

3) 20 or more HCP between you and partner.

For ex:

-- Doubles at the 1-level : 12-7 tricks = 5 trump needed

-- Doubles at the 2-level : 12-8 tricks = 4 trump needed

-- Doubles at the 3-level : 12-9 tricks = 3 trump needed

3) LEAD--DIRECTING :

-- Any double of an artificial bid is Lead‑ Directing. eg.: after Stayman 2§ a double asks partner to lead §.

-- The double of 3NT usually calls for the lead of a specific suit; the defenders' suit if they have bid, otherwise dummy's first--bid suit.

-- LIGHTNER DOUBLE. The double of a voluntarily bid Slam asks partner to make an unusual / unexpected lead instead of their own obvious suit, or a neutral lead (Possibility of a void.)

TRAP PASS : Contents

The more length and strength a player has in the opponent's suit, the more he should be inclined to pass; even if hand has an opening bid as much as 14--18 HP.

Discreet silence if the opponents are trying to play in your suit. The evidence suggests a misfit.

You can make a penalty double at the end.

******************************************

THE OPENING LEAD : Contents

In 2 steps :

1.) Which suit to lead,

2.) Correct card from within the suit.

1.a) Against a NT contract :

--In which suit you, as defenders, have the most cards. If your partner made a positive bid from that suit.

--Without any clues to guide you, your own longest suit and generally FOURTH BEST (from the top) of it to give your partner the possibility of counting and locating the remaning cards each hand holds. (RULE OF ELEVEN)

e.g.:AQxxx; AKxxxx; AKJx; KQxx; QJ9x; QJ42; 9742; Axxxx; Kxxx; and top of interior sequence, AJ10xx.

-- Without any clues to guide you, and nothing suitable to lead, with a poor hand lacking entries, you could try to hit your partner's suit and lead for him not for your hand on the condition that you will not damage your partnership balance.

e.g.:A top card from a short suit which will contribute and give your partner some help and realisation that you led for him.

-- Lead made according to "Lead-Directing Double".

1.b) Against a Suit Contract:

-- A safe lead that doesn't give away a trick or one that prepares a second trick for you. Ideal one is to lead from a sequence.

-- Lead from an unbid suit. If 2 or especially 3 of suits have been bid by opponent's 4th one is a very good lead.

-- Lead from your partner's suit, if any.

-- Lead made according to "Lead-Directing Double".

-- A passive lead from a worthless holding is also relatively safe.

-- Occasionally it is right to lead trumps, especially when declarer's suit has been supported by his partner (Dummy). If you think that you will not lose any trick by doing that and declarer is planning to ruff losers in dummy, and you have no hopes of ruffing.

But avoid opening a singleton trump.

-- A singleton may be a good lead if partner has an entry and can give you a ruff. But do not lead a short suit when you have long trumps yourself. Then it is better to lead your own longest and best suit. By doing that declarer will be forced to ruff and you will eventually have more trumps than he has.

-- Avoid leading from tenaces. In some situations you will give valuable information to the declarer.

-- These are some rules for opener.

AS SECOND DEFENDER do not forget these:

* AVOID LEADING INTO DUMMY'S TENACE.

* LEAD UP TO DUMMY'S WEAKNESS.

2.) After deciding on which suit to attack then you will SELECT THE CORRECT AND BEST CARD in it.

a) A singleton.

b) If you have 2 cards in that suit; HIGHER ONE

c) If you have 3 cards in that suit:

-- "Top of nothing" : 972; 863; 654; and then continue with the second and third higher one so as not to give your partner the impression of a doubleton. Still, "Top of Nothing" is not supposed to be a desirable lead.

-- From 3 cards which include an honour: SMALL ONE. K72; Q82; J64; 1062. But not from Axx against a suit contract. This time Axx.

-- From 3 cards of which top 2 are touching TOP CARD. AK5; QJ5; KQ2; J109; 1096; 762. (In USA from AK5)

d) If you have 4 or more cards in that suit:

-- FOURTH-BEST unless your holding is headed by a sequence. Kxxx; KQxx; QJ9x; Qxxx; xxxx; AQxxx; AKxxx; AKxxxx;

THE IMPORTANCE OF LEADING FOURTH-BEST

-- RULE OF ELEVEN Contents

Reading the spot cards :

When partner leads his Fourth-Best card, 3rd hand (here E), in most cases, can tell how many cards declarer has in that suit.

e.g. W: Lead 5 ; Dummy: 32; E: A4

When East looks for the cards which are smaller than the 5, he can see them all, so he will realize that West started with a 4-card suit and declarer must have 5 cards in that suit.

The RULE OF ELEVEN:

When partner leads his Fourth-Best card, 3rd hand can tell exactly how many cards declarer has which are higher than the card led.

e.g. W: Lead 7 ; Dummy: K54; E: AJ96

When East looks for the lower cards he can not see 2 and 3, and can not tell whether West started with 4, 5 or 6 cards. This time he uses "Rule of Eleven"; which is to subtract the card led from 11. This gives the total number of higher cards in East's hand + Dummy + Declarer's hand

In this case; 11-7 (the card led) =4. means that Dummy, East and Declarer together have 4 cards higher than 7 led. As East can see all 4 of them (K; A; J; 9) it follows that declarer doesn't have any higher cards than the card led 7; and partner has the remaining higher cards. (8,10,Q)

Where does the Rule of Eleven comes from;

how it is calculated?

There are 13 cards in a suit, but the lowest is the 2, therefore the highest (the Ace) must rank as 14. The King is the 13th card, the Queen the 12th, and the Knave the 11th. Take any card and deduct its pips from 14 and you know how many cards are higher than it. Take the 7; deduct from 14 and you know there are 7 cards higher.

The business of deducting from 11 instead of 14 is merely because the 4th highest card has been led; the player himself holds 3 higher cards.

"SECOND HAND LOW" - "THIRD HAND HIGH"

These are the suggested orders of play on top of the cards led or played, and are the general rules in the vast majority of cases.

--"Second hand low" applies when a low card is led"

--"Third hand high" -but the lowest of touching cards- applies when dummy's cards are low.

But of course you will consider the rules according to the card led, which cards you see in dummy and in your hand.

e.g.:

COVER AN HONOUR WITH AN HONOUR to promote a lesser card; but if this honour is from a sequence wait for the second one, and always finesse against dummy's high card.

Sometimes you will voluntarily lose (DUCK) the first trick to keep communication open for your side but closed for the declarer. So that;

--If your partner has only 2 cards, he will be able to lead it again.

--If you are going to lose one trick anyway, (especially if you lack a certain entry), make it the first.

RETURNING PARTNER'S SUIT :

It is normally advisable to return the suit which partner leads.

To select the correct card to return :

-- If you started with 3-cards in the suit return the higher remaining card

-- If you started with 4 or more cards in the suit, return the card that was originally your fourth-best. Especially against NT contracts to enable your partner to read and count yours and declarer's hand and to assess how many and which cards of this suit you and declarer hold.

SIGNALLING : Contents

1- The "Come-on" signal :

--If you want your partner to, continue the suit he has led play a high card. HIGH--LOW is encouraging.

--If you do not want your partner to continue play your lowest card. LOW and UPWARD is discouraging.

2- The "Count Signal" :

When declarer leads a suit either from hand or from dummy, defender who will play first ;

--With an odd number (3 or 5) of cards in the suit, plays his SMALLEST card.

--With an even number (2 or 4) of cards in the suit, plays HIGH-LOW. Again to enable the partner to count how many cards in that suit the declarer might have is very important in some critical situations.

3- The "Trump-Echo" (High-Low) :

In the trump suit the method of giving count is exactly reversed. The Trump Echo :

--Giving a HIGH TRUMP shows 3 trumps, rarely 5 (Odd number.)

--With 2 or 4 Trumps (Even number) a defender plays his LOWEST TRUMP.

4- The "Suit Preference" signal:

--If you want partner to return the HIGHER RANKING of the 2 remaining suits in dummy (other than Trumpsand the suit you have been playing), you lead a HIGH card.

--If you want partner to return the LOWER RANKING of the 2 remaining suits you lead your LOWEST card

5- The "Honour Signal" :

Discarding an Honour is a very strong signal and guarantees the honour just below it, but denies possession of the honour just above it.

************************

The easiest and shortest way of signalling is described by the famous comedian

GROUCHO MARX:

"If you like my lead don't bother to signal with a high card,

just smile and nod your head!"

************************

This is the end of my modest "REMINDER" section. Nevertheless, it is just the start of your adventures in BRIDGE, beginning with...

JEREMY FLINT'S alphabet: Contents

A : Analyse

B : Biddings

C : Count

D : Dangers

E : Entries

One of the most important things in my view in Bridge is;

" CARD READING " ,

but I do not know where to fit this into the alphabet.

And do not forget to

RE-ASSESS AND TO RE-VALUE

your hand according to the latest information you have collected from listening and watching carefully.

I remember that, one of the famous old bridge players used to say something like this:

Being a successful bridge player is not a matter of dealing with the rare difficult hands, --- it is a matter of not messing up all the ordinary easy hands.

GOOD LUCK.

Before continuing with the APPENDICES section of “MY BRIDGE BOOK” I would like to tell you about

TIPS & TACTICS Contents

“HOW I TRY TO PLAY”

“MY SUGGESTIONS and TIPS & TACTICS” to my partners and friends :

Here, I must point out that I prefer ACOL; and I like / prefer playing DUPLICATE rather than Rubber games, because you have to try to find the real value of your hand.

--- Weak NT : 12-14 HP. -- Weak NT allows you to enter the field as soon as possible rather than keep waiting for a quite high point count which has low probability.

--- Weak take-out. -- It is almost natural follow up /necessity of weak NT

--- Bid long suit first.

--- 2 of 5-card suits : Higher ranking first.

--- 2 of 4-card suits : Lower ranking first.

In my opinion following these two rules will make the understanding of the length of the suit easier.

--- Repeating a suit confirms that it is a 5-card suit. It follows that if there was a suit bid before this one, it must be 6-card or more.

--- If you have 4 cards of your partner's opening suit you should show an immediate support as "First Round Support".

** Just repeating the same suit doesn't promise extra strength. It shows that it is just a biddable suit, and opening bid could be as low as 8-9-10 points for tactical reasons, depending on being Vulnerable or Not Vulnerable.

** Changing suit / offering a second suit, promises some extra strength and with some help might produce a good result.

** Try to say something in reply to your partner's 2 opening bid or jump bid. If you have nothing; 2NT is negative answer.

--- 2 openings : 8 playing tricks. (Freeing 20-22 HP for 2NT)

--- 2 NT : 20-22 points.

--- Stayman at 2 and 3 levels.

--- Defence against 3 openings (pre-emptive) : Optional Double ; 3NT asks partner to show his best suit.

--- If your 1NT opening bid is doubled and you Redouble it, you are asking your partner for a take-out to his best suit.

--- Slam investigation GERBER : 4C - 5C (or 4C - escalating) and BLACKWOOD if Club has been bid.

--- High - Low discard is encouraging to continue that suit. It shows that either you have a high card in that suit or it is a doubleton.

--- Low - High discard is discouraging, and it shows that you have 3-4 cards in that suit. And if you continue discarding from that suit it shows that you don't have any hope from that suit / you are giving up any expectations in that suit. This might suggest to your partner that he should keep that suit if he has any hope in it.

** 2 x 5 card suit hands usually produce good results even if the point count is low.

** The Shape of a hand is more important than the point count.

**Opening lead from a sequence like KQ, QJ, J10 including AK : Play the high one which promises the one below.

**Do not lead K or Q because they are singleton. You are giving declarer an easy ride. And he will calculate / read the hands as if they are open hands. In addition to this fact, he might finesse for it and give you a trick but still not know that it is singleton.

But, if you are sure that your partner has the Ace, you might play it and then try to pass the hand to him so that he will be able to give you a ruff or will play through declarer or dummy towards your high card /suit.

**Making an opening lead with a singleton trump is not supposed to be a good idea / action. If you have a singleton, most possibly your partner might have some cards of that suit with an honour card in it. If you play it you will put your partner into a finesse very convenient and helpful to the declarer. You will lose a "Might be a winner card" and TEMPO.

** But if the opposition has reached a game bid like 1H--2H--4H, leading a trump could be a good idea. Because most possibly they've got most of the trumps with the winning honour cards; and possibly they've got shortages in other suits. Leading a trump will reduce their RUFFING VALUES.

** Against this sort of game bidding, making an opening bid of a doubleton, even of a singleton in the hope that you would be able to ruff might not be a good idea at all. Because, as soon as the declarer gets in, he will sort out / collect the trumps. You could be putting your partner into a finesse, unless you are sure that your partner holds the winning card and can give you a ruff immediately.

**If opponents bid and raise a suit, they usually have at least 8 cards between them. Make your calculations and play accordingly.

**If you have 4 or more trumps of the declarer's trump suit, and he/she has only 5 or 6 trumps, the best strategy is usually to make declarer ruff and ruff again so that his/her trumps will be reduced, will be exhausted and he/she will lose the Trump Control , and as result you will be in control of his/her game.

**You can lead trumps when the opponents are playing in their third or fourth-bid suit.

**Leading trumps could be a good idea when one opponent has shown a freak 2-suiter and the other has given a preference. In this situation, the suit which has been denied can be ruffed by dummy and losing tricks of that suit become winners.

**Do not hesitate to ruff a winning trick of the declarer with your remaining trump even if that trump is a winner on its own anyway; like A. K or Q, use it to ruff the winning trick, especially if it is an Ace or King of the declarer. This might promote a winning trick for your partner in that suit.

**Do not underlead the Ace; unless you are sure that your partner has the K and you want to pass the hand to him. If there isn't any suitable lead other than that suit; cash the Ace, then continue that suit.

**Do not cash the Aces unnecessarily; unless there is a danger that you might lose it. It will release the declarer from a difficult decision / situation; most possibly will give him an extra trick. Don't save his King by killing your own Ace.

**If there is only one trump left out when you are collecting trumps, and it is higher than yours, it is normally best to leave it out; and then, to get rid of it, try to make it wasted by ruffing on one of your safe cards rather than using some more of your trumps.

**When cashing winners in a suit, try to keep the TENACE intact so as not to lose the opportunity of finessing in case of a bad break. (Tenace= Any holding of cards not in sequence in the same suit : A-J , K-10 , Q-10 etc.). Play first the winners where there is no tenace.

**Win or attempt to win a trick with the highest of equal cards, so that they won't be able to tell where the others are. For ex. win with the A from A,K,Q. But remember that some situations should be treated exactly the opposite way.

Similarly when discarding make a "False Discard" from touching cards. For ex. if you discard J from J,10, they won't be able to tell where the 10 is.

**If a high card or an unexpected card drops from somebody, wake up and think twice, "Why?".

**Try to get into the habit of counting your winning tricks before starting your game. If they are less than necessary you will have to have a policy about where you are going to get them from. And which suit is more suitable to promote a trick for you?

**If one opponent is marked with a shortage in one suit, it is more likely that he/she has the length and strength in another critical suit.

**Sometimes, the optimistic view and play will have to be applied. It is said that : "If there is only one distribution of the cards which will allow your contract to succeed, assume that the cards are distributed that way."

**In a situation looking like a part score deal, if the bidding reaches the 3-4 level tend to defend; don't continue to bid on; don't compete.

Similarly, if bidding reaches the 5-level tend to defend rather than to bid on. Let the opposition struggle.

**Even if you think that you have a possible game in your partnership, to play at the 5-level for 11 tricks is still quite a difficult task; especially if opposition keeps competing. You need a strong hand in either Point Count, or in Distribution, or both, which is nearly a Slam Hand for 12 tricks. So, do be careful; either you will go down, or miss a Slam.

**If your partner opens and you have 14-15-16 points in your hand; even if your partner's opening might be a minimum / light opening (9-10), you should see a game (25-26) somewhere in your partnership. So, make encouraging bids and show your possible offers.

**After passing first time, if you have a reasonable hand and you are not vulnerable, re-open the bidding with Delayed Overcall when opponents bid and support a suit to the 2-level and then pass. This means that they don't have enough points to push towards a game, and your side might have a good fit and 'points balance' as well for a part-score.

**Personally, I don't like to leave the field to opposition at the 1-level game which means that they don't have enough strength to go on. If I have got something in my hand not suitable to open/bid, but suitable to play at the 1 or 2-level with no great loss, especially when not vulnerable, I try to push the opposition a bit further.

**But, if an opponent passes after long consideration, you should probably pass as well.

And, if you are playing against an underbidder, be reluctant to compete.

**When you want to double think twice. Don't depend on just the Aces your side might have. Declarer's side might have voids, especially if they keep bidding persistently although your side made biddings as well.

(See ; "All Doubling Situations" section as well.)

**If you think that you found your trump fit, and you know what you are going to play on, bid it straight away, rather than making a tour of all other probabilities (a scenic tour of all 5 suits); and most importantly, giving the opposition a chance of bidding their own suit.

**To find out who has got what, make use of simple maths. As you know there are 40 points althogether in 4 suits. Add your points to your dummy's. If the opposition made a bidding, add its approximate value to the value of your side; deduct the total from 40, the remaining figure will guide you to the missing points. Of course, approximate value of the opposition bidder is a good guide as well for the main points and where they are.

I must point out that in addition to simple maths, quite a lot of LOGIC is involved in Bridge.

**Information about opponent's hands can be gathered from the cards they play, and also from the cards that they avoid playing. And from their Signals, from their Discards as well. If you look at and listen to (!) these cards, they are going to tell you lots of secrets.

**Almost never play a card / suit which will be ruffed by the declarer from both hands. Giving the RUFF AND DISCARD chance to the opposition is certainly a losing, very bad play in defence. This will give the declarer a chance to discard from one of the hands. Unless; if it is obvious that this discard won't benefit him. When my partners play this sorts of card I feel very uneasy as if I have been betrayed.

Of course it is very nice if an opponent plays this way against you to give an early birthday present in the form of a game which is, in reality, unmakeable.

**Do not be self-centered and think of just yourself. Think about your partner and his/her hand as well. This is a partnership game, not an individual's game. You can do something if you play on common ground. Otherwise you just defeat your own side.

**Do not prepare, before others, the card you are poing to play / discard; wait until your exact turn. Otherwise this will pass enourmous amont of information to the declarer, and will make his winning finesse decision easier.

**Do not count openly the tricks in front of you which you have won. If you do this you are telling the opposition that you are in doubt about making your contract and warning them that they should play carefully.

**Do not play automatically, like a ROBOT --programmed for just one probability / just for one direction. Every hand is uniqe and might or might not fit the guidance /available rules which might not be suitable for automatic play. Think and observe for a second about the card that has been played, and check the dummy as well, then decide what to play -- a small one, just a covering one or a high one.

**Try to keep communication open between your hand and your dummy by reserving high card - low card balance in both hands. Don't always slavishly follow the tendency to discard small cards.

**In other words, don't waste your small cards by playing automatically. Keep one or two, you might desperately need them; as I said above, for communication, or for an end play. (see Hands: The 5 NT Case)

**Try to keep communication open between you and your partner as well.

**To cover an honour with an honour is usually advised as a good idea; because it might promote a lower card for you or for your partner.

**NT opening lead : 4TH BEST which makes it possible for your partner to calculate the remaining high cards.

Always apply this "RULE OF ELEVEN" to your partner's lead and opposition's lead as well.

**If your partner starts cashing A against a NT contract, it means that he/she has the K as well (as it is for suits too) and it might be a 5-card suit or more. If you have the Q of that suit as 2-cards or even 3-cards you must consider, (even in some situations you should) discard the Q not to block the suit in your hand, and let your partner see, to picture the situation. If it is against a suit contract the act has 3 encouraging possibilities:

1) The Q is singleton, 2) It is doubleton or 3)He/she has the J as well.

**There are situations where you might prefer a short suit lead in NT game of the opposition. The idea is to be able to hit your partner's suit, because your hand is hopeless, and it looks as if any lead might damage your partner's hand.

-- If your long suit has been bid by the opposition (meaning; they have some length in it; and your partner can't be any help in that suit), and yours is not a solid one. In this case you will put yourself into a finesse willingly. Wait for declarer to play it into your sequences; putting himself into finesse rather than you.

-- Your long suit is poor quality and your hand has no entries. So; you don't have enough time, TEMPO to establish it, then not enough entries to get in again to cash established ones.

-- Your long suit is an unattractive 4-card suit. It is worthless trying to establish it for the 4th round -after losing the first 3 tricks; even if you have entries as well.

In these situations if you are going to make a short suit lead, prefer a MAJOR to a minor, especially if it is a decent looking 3 card holding which could promote some tricks for your partner. Because it is more likely that if the opponents had a Major suit to bid and play they would do so. This might indicate that your partner has it. Help him rather than helping declarer with a useless, 'tempo losing' lead.

**But generally speaking, in the circumstances other than described above, Playing Top of Nothing is supposed to be one of the worst opening leads in Bridge.

-- You are advertising where all the high cards in that suit are.

-- You are announcing that you have a difficult hand from which to lead.

-- You are helping the declarer by putting your own partner into an undesirable, undeserved, untimely finesse.

**Playing NT; when you want to HOLD UP / DUCK, because you have only one stopper in the opposition's opening lead, and you want to exhaust the number of the cards in that suit in the opening leader's partner so that he/she won't be able to play it back, how many times must you duck?

-- Add the number of the cards held by you and dummy in that suit and deduct from 7. It shows how many times you should duck. (RULE OF SEVEN)

**If it is possible, to play NT is best to be left to the strong hand and weak hand as dummy, so that opposition won't see where your length, strength or weakness lies.

It is said that the other way round is suitable for trump suit plays; meaning, have strong hand as dummy.

**If opener makes a Reverse Bid (higher ranking than the suit opened), usually his/her first suit is longer than the second one. Because Reverse promises stronger hand (more than a normal or minimum opening hand) and 2 suits of unequal length.

**When you have 9 cards including the Ace, King it is normally better to play the 2 top honours expecting the Queen to drop rather than finessing.

But if you have 8 cards including the Ace, King and Jack, it is normally best to finesse for the Queen on the second round.

--Nine never, eight ever--

**Generally speaking, when you are playing a suit contract, it is advantageous to ruff only in the hand that contains shorter trumps. But, sometimes the only way of making your contract is DUMMY REVERSAL. This means that declarer uses his own trumps --longer trump hand--, to ruff dummy's losers in a succession, and later uses dummy's --the shorter hand-- trumps to draw the remaining trumps in the opposition hands. And, this is called Making Dummy The Master Hand.

**Slam biddings : If you have a strong trump fit and no losers in the first 3 rounds of any suit, you will most possibly win all 13 tricks.

**Slam biddings : When you find out that you have a void, and you have a good trump fit in your partnership, you should make your point count on 30 points, not 40. In that case you can bid a Small Slam on about 23-24 points; and a Grand Slam on about 26 points.

** "Notice and Obey" your partner's signal.

In any case you should "Trust your partner".

At the same time keep in mind that signals could inform the opposition as well.

**You should try to save, to rescue your partner from an unfortunate looking bidding and hand; but don't sacrifice more than once.

**If you don't have any particular signal to send your partner; discard Red on red; Black on black if possible. This is a tip trying to take advantage of opposition not being able to notice the difference of suits; especially if he/she is somebody who doesn't pay attention to what is going on around them and has a concentration weakness.

**Always try to lead your partner's suit, if he bid one; and even if the opponents have bid NT afterwards and will play NT.

Lead the highest card up to Q (incl.) and then, go down in order again (after considering/ observing the dummy's cards that it won't harm your side's holding), to give your partner a clear reading/ picture of the hands.

** If you don't lead your partner's suit "You must have a very good reason" , such as a good 5-card or 6-card suit of your own and have enough entries to establish and use it. Otherwise you might be reprimanded and then left without a partner. I can't guarantee that he/she will start playing with you again.

I can't help remembering the story of a keen bridge player which I put it in the Jokes section. Please forgive me, I will repeat it.

"After divorcing his wife a bridge addict played with several people. Sometime later he re-married his ex-wife. They asked him why he had done this? He said: She is the only woman who doesn't ruff my aces."

The same principle applies to suit contracts as well

The Golden Rule for partners is; " Keep your partner in a good mood if he / she is your superior as a player and encourage him / her if he / she is your inferior."

**Players below average, especially beginners are very unpredictable, lots of time shockingly unpredictable.

You can never tell, or guess what they are going to do; and this makes them more dangerous than the good players, than the experts. Keep this in mind and watch out for them; be alert, be careful.

**We can put extreme convention users in the same category. Don't believe yourself that you know what convention they are using.

I think I have already said this on several occasions, and I will repeat it again; you have to consider that there are several variations of every normal or abnormal convention and there are several interpretations of every variation. All this means that, you might not know what they are using, and even they might not know what they are using. Just be careful, and decide according to the players you are playing against, whether or not you are going to ask what they are using. I have observed lots of times that after the question and the explanation given, either one of them or both of them suddenly wake up, and then are able to escape from a muddle.

One day, a club player, a friend asked me at the club if I know BENJAMIN. Although I knew what he meant I said "No, I don't know him; is he a new member, could you introduce me?" He was so keen and enthusiastic about what he learned that he didn't notice my sarcasm. He started to explain the Benjamin Convention with a flood of words. From what I was able to catch out of this shower; I understood that he had been taught something different and it looked as if it was a new convention. He was very excited, and I think he was dreaming of going on to become the Grand Master of the Club playing with Benjamin (!). So when he uses this convention against us, either our side or their side is going to get muddled up.

Sometimes I really don't know

"To ask, or not to ask. This is the question."

**The impression I have got from all Bridge players, up to now during my Bridge Life is that the most irritating and hated Bridge Players are the rude and arrogant ones. These are mostly found among the extreme convention users and are mostly National or International Competition players of all nationalities. That's why I avoid going to these events; and my heart condition can't take this sort of thing either. But we can still admit that the majority of Bridge players are nice people. Of course there are 1 or 2 arrogant ones in clubs as well, but they are in a real minority, and can be ignored, or even rejected from clubs by nobody playing with them.

For example, during the play, after you have been alerted to their bidding, and you ask "What does it mean?" , they just say, for example, Sputnik, Astro or something, then stop. You are expected to know, because they don't want to bother to explain the thing which is, in reality, pages and pages in length. When you ask them " ooh, what then?" they look at your face with surprise as if they are just seeing the most stupid face in the world, imposing their superiority over you, and mumbling some words to try to make you feel small.

If you can take this without losing your concentration and temper, you can play with this sort of person and win. In fact, if I don't lose my temper, I quite enjoy watching and observing these people. It is quite interesting.

** I understand of course, the necessity of "Alerting”, but although I try really hard to understand the necessity of “STOP” bid from the explanations I read everywhere, I still can't get the idea. It always looks, including when I do it myself, as if you are warning your partner “Hey, wake up, I am making a really important bid, don’t be an idiot again as in your other bids.”

So, please don't add an extra warning to this warning by shouting “STOP !”.

**Do not hesitate. It is unethical anyway, if it is more than a few seconds. You do pass very valuable information to the declarer ; but you might give a false impression to your partner and deceive him / her.

** Some players do really admire the scenery on the ceiling, on the floor, on the walls around the room (??!!), and stare at them for ages when it is their turn to bid or play. After looking at their hand for some time they start the same procedure again. Then you get bored, and if you dare to ask "What are they doing?" they say "They are thinking, and assessing the situation." Because this "right of assessing" is allowed according to EBU laws, you can't say very much, although iy is often misused.

I don't know if they are assessing or not, but it is obvious that they can irritate you and make you lose your concentration and even your temper. Then you are almost definitely bound to lose that hand. So the manoeuvre is successful. Please, don't be one of these people.

**Some players, as soon as they pick up and open up their cards in their hands say "No Bid". You can easily tell that they don't have serious maths problems other than 1+1 or 1+2. Value your hand accordingly.

On the other hand some players after picking up and opening up their cards, put them into order. Then they start grinning, scratching their heads, moving in their chairs, making sighs. All these types of things take quite a lot of time and you can tell that they have a good, interesting hand and they are having difficulties with their maths. Don't be too rash.

**Some players after their bidding and their partner's response, just repeat their suit; close their open cards, and put their hands in front of them or in their lap. They want to say : "I have finished my bidding, can't go on any more, so just STOP bidding." And they do this whenever they want to tell their partner to stop.

**Do not behave unethically, do not use unsavoury methods, do not do unpleasant or dishonest things. I will give you some easy-to-spot examples of this sort of behaviour. Some people do these sorts of things knowingly, on purpose which makes them worse and more dishonest; on the other hand, some people do these sorts of things unwittingly, as some sort of instinctive reflex, which makes them forgiveable but it is still not very nice because they can pass information which will favour them not you.

--Don't change your systems from one hand to the next; or from one table to the other table.

--Don't try to give the impression by thinking, or hesitating that you have more cards, or higher cards than the played one when you have only a singleton.

--Don't do the same sort of thing when you have 2-3 cards in the played suit as if you have higher ones when you don't.

-- Always play straight without trying to give any impression.

--Some people go into exactly the same thinking, hesitating position for a long time when it is their turn and there is a card on the table to follow. As if they can't decide for ages what to do.

Then not only themselves but everybody knows that he/she has a higher card than the one on the table; and this happens usually, over K, Q type of high cards. Consequently, their partner knows that whenever he/she wants to pass the hand to him they can use that knowledge as a good entry to his partner's hand.

--Don't pull a card, then put it back as if you are going to change what you want to play because you have a choice of plays, when you have only a singleton.

--Don't make a call with a special emphasis. Some players roar out double when they wish their partner to pass. Some make the bid in the form of an inquiry when they wish their partner to bid.

--Some players play a card with a special emphasis.

--Some players glare sternly at their partner when he/she makes a bid of which they do not approve.

--Some players nod their heads to show their approval; some players shake their head from side to side to show their disapproval.

--Some players make a remark from which their partner may draw an inference.

--Some players tap the “ X = Double “ card with their fingers once or twice after putting it on the table to double the opposition. It looks as if it is a warning sign for the partner to say that he/she shouldn't take any further action.

--Don't double by naming the suit, for example : "I double Clubs".

--Don't look at your partner's face in the hope of picking up some information from his/her expression.

--Don't say things like "I don't know what to bid" or "I don't know what to play"

--Some players watch the place from which a player takes a card from his hand.

--When opposition makes a small mistake unwittingly don't put them into a difficult, shameful position; just forget it.

**We say that; United Nations declare that, all human beings are equal. Yet we know perfectly well that this is not the reality, it is an utopia. They are not born equal, they don't live equal, they don't die equal. The same can be said for Bridge as well.

We say, and there is some truth in it, that the element of LUCK is not present in the game of Bridge. This is not completely true. As a result of the first statement/fact there will always be some among us Born Lucky. I can put these into 2 groups :

1) The ones who are always at the right table at the right time. For example, you play against some hard nut opposition and can't get an easy ride from them; but others play the same hand against poorer players and get a free gift, a top from them.

You can do nothing about this; it is their good luck -- your bad luck. But their opposition might surprise them from time to time.

2) The ones who always have the high and the right cards. This type of Born Lucky person will always produce really unexpected cards after unexpected/ unrelated bids or non bids.

I have known quite a lot of this type of person during my Bridge life. Fortunately, you can do something about this. This is what I do: When I am in a Bridge environment I try to identify / spot these people (it takes time), and then play accordingly. For example; if I need to find out the location of a card for counting or ruffing reasons; or if I am going to make a finesse, I look for these cards in these people's hands. More than 80% of time it works.

In fact, there is a 3rd group; "The UNTOUCHABLES" who combine the first 2 groups.

You can do 2 things against these people; just pray to God for his help; or kill them ! (Just joking)

My own description of a winning player depends on 3 factors :

You win 40% from your skill; 30% from your luck; 30% from your opposition. If you can combine these 3 elements on you, you are a winner.

I don’t think that a player can succeed 100% just using his/her skill. Sooner or later they are bound to make mistakes as well. And on a club competition night if you can score 60% you will almost always be a winner. Let’s say you are a skilful player, and you manage to use all your probable / possible skill, you will get 40; then if you can get 10% each from the other 2 factors, you will score the winning 60%.

Anyway;

Although these things are true / correct most of the time, all situations are circumstantial, and they should be adjusted accordingly to the conditions of that particular time.

I repeat :

Do not be a ROBOT, programmed for just one possibility, give it a short THINK, considering your partner's hand as well, not only your own hand.

And do not forget :

--- CARD READING is very important.

--- RE-ASSESSING and RE-VALUATION is necessary after every bidding and play.

Simple is beautiful

--- KEEP IT SIMPLE.

Believe me; very complicated conventions that even confuse their users won't save you from defeat

if you can't add 2 and 2.

if you can't observe what is going on around you.

if you can't DEFEND properly.

Here, I must mention a very sensible judgement of a Grand Master of Bridge, Ely Culbertson. He said this 60 or 70 years ago:

"Technique without bridge psychology is of little value

--- Some say "BRIDGE IS AN EASY GAME" ;

I say "IT IS NOT".

Is there anything easy

if you don't put any effort in it?

And the first effort to make is learning how to count and add up to 13, and then remember it !

As I said before, if every hand is UNIQUE and every situation will have to be treated within its own specifications, Bridge is going to be a difficult, challenging game; and that's why it is appealing. So we don't need any extra burdens on our poor brains. Because lots of these conventions, up to hundreds of them, are for very specific situations, and these situations will occur very rarely. It is almost always difficult to find an exact hand which will fit the exact description of a specific convention.

(See the Joke in Negative Double section)

As a foreigner, I can easily say that all the words listed below, should be remembered in every Bridge game situation.

Assess Re-assess Inference

Impression Implication Deduction

Conceive Comprehend Anticipate

Assumption Interpret Observe

Valuation Re-valuation Apply

Consideration Promotion (card)

and LOGIC of course.

If we can apply these words with our moderate, --not scientific-- Bridge knowledge, together with some logic, some simple maths, a good defence, some psychology, and some observation we will win.

If we can build a GOOD PARTNERSHIP our chance of winning is always high. We say in Turkish “One hand can’t make any sound / noise; you need two hands to make a sound / noise”. It doesn't matter even if you yourself are able to use your skill 100%, you will still lose if your partner pulls out the brick at the bottom. He/she will defeat you before the opposition do.

Now, I think we can talk about the biggest and the most difficult problem of Bridge;

PERSONALITY.

I met and knew quite a lot of Bridge Players in Turkey before I came into this country; and then here. I noticed that everybody who plays or claims to play Bridge (including me of course) thinks that he / she is better than the others.

Because it is wrongly said that Bridge is "an intellectuals’ game ; clever people's game". Thus, if you are mistaken or beaten you are stupid. And nobody wants to be stupid or thought to be stupid.

Another thing is that everybody always wants to win everything. This is a result of " The weakness and greed of human nature". Of course always winning is not possible, and is not a good thing anyway.

Possibly you know that Einstein was a poor student in his youth; and they say that he couldn't manage to play Bridge. In fact, the best mathematicians are frequently poor players, because there are no definite, mathematical rules in Bridge to which their mind is accustomed.

I have heard lots of Bridge Players say :

"I don't like to be told" ;

"I don't want to talk, I don't want to discuss about this." ;

"I know what I am doing." ;

"My way of thinking is the right one" ;

"I played correctly, you are wrong" ;

"I don't accept your argument, that is the end of the matter"

It is as if they don't want to find common ground with their partner by discussing and listening to each other but feel that they are being insulted by being shown their mistakes. Whereas in fact we all learn better and more from our mistakes.

Bridge is nothing to do with intellectuality; it is "Having Card Sense, interest in it, and TIME" . Just like the other senses; some people have more, some less than others in certain areas as nature gave them.

And you need a lot of time to play and to practise Bridge. To be able to spare enough time to play Bridge, rather than dealing with your job, your business, or your family, you need to be financially secure in one way or another.

Possibly because of this situation, it used to be said "Bridge is an upper-class game". Because these people have the time and the money to play Bridge; not because they are cleverer than us, ordinary people. Young people, and average income people can't afford to play Bridge. It is not because they are idiots.

Thus, possibly because of this situation, we see in the Bridge Clubs, and social gatherings mostly (possibly 80-90%) people who are middle aged or over, or retired, who have some financial security, and 'who have leisure time’ , rather than young people, or 'those who have to work'.

My wife is quite an intelligent woman. When I wanted her to get involved with Bridge and teach her how to play, I very quickly gave up. Let alone playing Bridge, she couldn't even manage to hold the cards properly. So is she stupid, because she can't play Bridge ??!!

You don't have to play the best Bridge to be respected in the Bridge Club. It is in your own field, or profession where you get the real respect. Bridge is for enjoyment, try to enjoy it, it is a good / challenging game.

But if you want to take it both as an enjoyment and as something more than enjoyment, which I assume you would like to, you must analyse the hands from the point of view of both success and failure.

And if somebody shows you where you have gone wrong, BE THANKFUL, don't feel insulted.

We are all human beings; and no human beings including experts are free from mistakes. Everybody is going to make mistakes, a few or a lot. The number of mistakes made according to the level of skill is going to be one of the elements in the winning result.

The one who makes fewer mistakes than the others will win.

APPENDIX -- LEADS Contents

SOME STANDARD LEADS

Lead at Lead at

Holding: Suit bids No-Trump

AKQx or more A A

(Leading A at NT asks partner to drop his highest of suit)

AK (show dbl.) K->A --

AKJx or more A A

AKxxx A 4th best

KQJ(or10)xx K K

KQxxx K 4th best

QJ10(or9)xx Q Q

QJx or more Q 4th best

J109xx J J

J10x or more J or 4 th best 4th best

109x or more 10 10

Leads from the combinations below are not desirable at suit bids but if you have to, do not underlead aces as always.

AQJxx A Q

AQ109x A 10

AQxx or more A 4th best

AJ10x or more A J

A109x or more A 10

KJ10x or more J J

K109x or more 10 10

Q109x or more 10 10

If you do not have your own suit to lead and you have to lead from 3-card suits with one honour in NT bids, lead the 3rd highest. In most situations my choice is to lead the highest then downwards from 3 or 2-card suits to be able to hit partner's suit and to help him to establish his suit.

Axx A x

Kxx x x

Qxx x x

Jxx x x

Xx X X

==========================================

APPENDIX - POINTS

POINTS GUIDE AT A GLANCE :

A.) OPENINGS :

9--10 : Light (6-card or two 5-cards)

10--12 : Light (5-card or two 4-cards)

12--19 : One level; then jump rebid

13--14 : At 4-4-4-1 distribution.

13--15 : Prepared 1§ or 1¨

12--14 : 1 NT

15--20 : 2 of a suit; (under some conditions - 8 PT)

20--22 : 2 NT

23--24 : 2§

6--9 : Pre-emptive 3bids. (with 7-8 card suit)

12--13 : " " 3NT (Gambling 3NT- Long minor suit)

10--11 : " " 4 or 5 game bids

20 + : 4NT (on distributionally powerful hands to ask particular aces.)

+shape

--6§ or 6¨ Same.

B.) SOME LIMIT REBIDS OF OPENER :

Opener -- Partner

1.. -- 1..

1NT-- = 15-16 (or good 14)

1.. -- 1..

2NT-- = 17-18 (or good 16)

1.. -- 1..

3NT-- = 19

1© -- 2¨

2NT-- = 15-16

1© -- 2¨

3NT-- = 17-18

1¨ -- 2©

2NT-- = 14-15

1¨ -- 2©

3NT-- = 16-17

1.. -- 1NT

2NT-- = 17-18

1.. -- 1NT

3NT-- = 19

1NT -- 2NT

3NT--- = 13-14

1© -- 2..

2ª--- = 16-18. Strength showing, reverse.

2§ -- 2..

2NT-- = 23-24

2§ -- 2..

3NT-- = 25+

C.) RESPONSES OVER 1-LEVEL SUIT OPENING

3--5- : Single raise with 5-card trump support.

5--9 : " " " 4- " " "

7--10 : Double " " 5- " " "

10--12 : " " " 4- " " "

12--14 : Direct jump to game.

5--8 : Direct jump to game with good trump support & shape

6--8 : New biddable suit. -ONE LEVEL-

5--9 : 1NT, balanced hand.

7+ : Pre-emptive; 2 or more level jump take-out into a long suit.

11--12 : 2 NT

13--14 : One-level jump take-out into a new suit

13--15 : 3NT

19--20 : 4NT (Quantitative)

19--20 : 5NT (Conventional-To ask 3 top honours)

Any strong : 4§ -GERBER- (Conventional)

" " : 4NT -BLACKWOOD- (Conventional)

D.) SOME LIMIT RESPONSES :

Opener Responder

1NT -- 2NT = 11--12

1NT -- 3NT = 12+

1NT -- 2§ = 8--11 -STAYMAN- Fit finding.

2NT -- 3¨ = } Transfer conventions of (FLINT and

2NT -- 3§ = } - BARON )

2§ -- 2¨ = 0--6 Negative response

2.. -- 2NT = 0--3 " "

2NT -- 3NT = 4--10

2NT -- 4NT = 11--12 Asks to bid 6NT with maximum

2NT -- 6NT = 13--14 Asks to bid 7NT with maximum

2.. -- 3NT = 10--12

1NT -- 4NT = 19--20 (Conv.) Asks partner to bid 6NT with maximum (14)

1NT -- 5NT = 23--24 (Conv.) Asks partner to bid 6NT with minimum (12) ; to bid 7NT with maximum (14)

1NT -- 6NT = 21--22

E.) RESPONDER'S REBIDS POSSIBILITIES :

5--8 : --Sign-off

--Preference

11--12 : --2NT

--A jump bid in a new suit (Possible two suiter)

13--14 : --To return opener's suit at 3-level

--Reverse bid

--Jump in his own suit

--New suit at 3-level

--Delayed game raise.

14--15 : --Fourth suit forcing convention. (Searching stopper in the suit bid.) One round forcing.

15--16 : --A jump bid in the fourth suit. (Two-suiter) Game forcing.

F.) OVERCALLS :

Simple : 8--13

Jump one-level : 15--20

Jump 2 or more level. (Pre-empt.) : 6 - 9

1.. -- 1NT : 15--16

1ª -- 2ª : 17--20 (Conventional.) Possible 2-suiter (any suit)

1NT--2NT : 16--17 (Conventional.) Powerful 2-suiter hand.

G.) TAKE-OUT DOUBLE :

12 Minimum.

APPENDIX -- SCORING Contents

CONTRACT BRIDGE - RUBBER –

INTERNATIONAL SCORING

For each trick bid and made:
ª Spades	30
© Hearts	30
¨ Diamonds	20
§ Clubs	20

No Trump -- First Trick	40
No Trump -- Each subsequent	30
*Double doubles the trick values*
Game	100

*PREMIUMS :*
	Not Vul.	Vul.
*Overtricks …….* each	Trick value
“ “ doubled each	100	200
Making a dbl./redbl.	50	50

*PENALTIES :*
	Not Vul.	Vul.
*Undertricks …….* each	50	100
“ “ doubled first	100	200
“ “ each subseq.	200	300
*A redouble doubles the doubled value of Tricks, Overtricks, Undertricks*

*EXTRA PREMIUMS :*
	Not Vul.	Vul.
Little Slam	500	750
Grand Slam	1000	1500
Two game Rubber	700	700
Three game Rubber	500	500
Unfinished Rubber Winners of one game)	300	300
No game -- only part score	50	50
Four suit honours	100	100
Five suit honours	150	150
Four Aces at NT	150	150

*The side making the most points at the conclusion of the Rubber (regardless of games) is the actual winner of the Rubber.*

APPENDIX - BRIDGE DRIVES Contents

CONTRACT BRIDGE DRIVE AND SCORE :

(Total-Point Event)

Each round is 4 games.

1st Deal -- Neither side is vulnerable.

2nd " -- Dealer's side is vulnerable.

3rd " -- " " " "

4th " -- Both sides are vulnerable.

And ;

Part-Score...................... 50

Game -- Not vuln....... 300

Game -- Vuln.............. 500

All other scoring is the same at Rubber Bridge. And the premium for honours is scored in Total- Point play.

In a Total-Point event individual winner is the contestant who has a better net score than any contestant with whom his score is compared.

PROGRESSIVE BRIDGE DRIVE - CHICAGO -

Four hands are dealt and played at each table like the above one. Each deal is scored separately using normal duplicate methods, ie, no trick points are carried over from one deal to the next; honours do not count. The total score, on the completion of each round, is entered in the column on the right of your score sheet.

Vulnerability is the same with the above one.

N 1st Deal -- Neither side is vulnerable.

E 2nd " -- Dealer's side is vulnerable.

S 3rd " -- " " " "

W 4th " -- Both sides are vulnerable.

4th deal is dealt as "GOULASH"; 3,3,3,4 ; not one by one.

2nd and 3rd deals can be played as dealer's side not vulnerable. In fact this makes livelier bidding than the other one; because of the higher game and slam bonuses, it is an advantage to be vulnerable.

And ;

Part-Score................... 50

Game - Not vuln.......300

Game - Vuln..............500

Honours do not count.

20-25 minutes is allowed for the play of each Round of 4 hands. Any hand being played when the Director calls for end of play must be thrown in immediately.

Progression :

Let's assume this is a mixed pair event.

--The Losing Lady moves UP one table.

--The Losing Gentleman moves DOWN one table.

--The Winning Lady remains seated

--The Winning Gentleman re-seats himself to the right of the Winning Lady.

Hence, at the new table, the incoming losing gentleman will partner the winning lady; and the incoming losing lady will partner the winning gentleman.

Or for a "2 Table Progressive - Chicago - Bridge" sitting and playing order could be like this:

Round	TABLE1	TABLE2
1	1-2 vs 4-5	3-6 vs 7-8
2	1-5 vs 3-7	2-4 vs 6-8
3	2-6 vs 5-7	1-3 vs 4-8
4	1-4 vs 6-7	2-5 vs 3-8
5	1-7 vs 2-8	3-5 vs 4-6
6	1-8 vs 5-6	2-7 vs 3-4
7	1-6 vs 2-3	4-7 vs 5-8

Unfortunately I can't put some CHICAGO BRIDGE Score card samples here, but there are in my book.

APPENDIX - PARTY BRIDGE

PARTY BRIDGE :

This term is used in the Laws for certain games of a social character and for duplicate in the home.

Replay Duplicate is perhaps the most instructive form of Party Bridge for four players, as it enables one pair to play against another under duplicate conditions. The same boards are played twice, first with one pair as North-South then with the other. Separate score slips are kept for each board. To prevent the game from becoming a test of memory, the boards may be re-played in random order, or after a lapse of time.

The scoring may be by match-points or total-points. If the former method is used, each deal is treated as a separate match. The pair having the better net score on a deal is credited with 1 point. The final scores are the totals of these match-points.

If total-point scoring is employed, the two slips for each deal are compared, and the pair having the greater plus or lesser minus is credited with the difference. The next scores for all deals, so determined, are totalled, and the pair having the larger total wins the difference.

APPENDIX - PIVOT BRIDGE

PIVOT BRIDGE ;

is a form of social bridge played at home, games where, instead of advancing from table to table as in party or progressive bridge, the players change or pivot among themselves at each individual table.

Pivot bridge is played by 4 or 5 and sometimes 6 players at a table.This form may be used for a single table or for large gatherings in which it is desirable to have each table play as a separate unit without progression by players.

The game is so arranged that each player plays with each other player at his table both as partner (once) and opponent (twice). There are two methods of play: first, four deals may be played to a round, one deal by each player, and the players change partners at the end of each four deals; second, rubbers may be played, and the players change partners at the end of each rubber.

If four deals to a round are played, the scoring is exactly the same as in Progressive Bridge ;if rubbers are played, the scoring is exactly the same as in Rubber Bridge.

CHANGING ORDER FOR 4 PLAYERS:

For a 3 round match at the same table

1.2 -- 3.4 1.3 -- 2.4 1.4 -- 2.3

CHANGING ORDER FOR 5 PLAYERS:

For a 5 round match at the same table

1.2 -- 3.4 1.4 -- 2.5 2.4 -- 3.5

1.5 -- 2.3 1.3 -- 4.5

CHANGING ORDER FOR 6 PLAYERS:

For an 8 round match at the same table

1.2 -- 3.4 1.5 -- 2.6 3.5 -- 4.6

1.6 -- 2.5 4.5 -- 3.6 1.4 -- 2.3

1.3 -- 2.4 5.6 -- 1.2

=================================================

There are versions of Bridge for TWO and THREE players.

Anyone who wants any detailed information on these can find a source easily in the rich Bridge literature.

APPENDIX - DUPLICATE BRIDGE Contents

D U P L I C A T E B R I D G E

The form of Bridge in which the same hand is played more than once. Each competing unit (which may be an individual, pair, or team) has to try to perform better than one or more other units playing the identical deals in similar circumstances. The luck of the deal, so important in rubber bridge, is therefore eliminated as much as possible, and bridge becomes a satisfactory test of skills.

But, still even in duplicate bridge, chance can be a considerable factor in the short run. Good contracts fail and bad contracts succeed; hands which represent borderline games and slams are likely to favour one side at the expense of the other. Less obvious, but equally important, is the chance of playing the right opponents at the right moment. With luck you will play against good opponents when they have no control of the bidding and play, and against weaker players when the bidding and play are slightly too difficult for them.

The most popular form of duplicate is the weekly club game. This usually consists of a 24 or 26-board pair event, lasting some 3 to 5 hours. The number of tables varies widely, but is likely to be between 8 and 15.

Essentially, the mechanics of duplicate require the following steps:

1) Getting the right boards and correct opponents to the table. This is arranged according to the MITCHELL or HOWELL MOVEMENT cards which will be decided according to the number of players and boards to be played during the session.

The Mitchell Movement is the simpler one and when it is used the North-South pairs remain stationary throughout the evening whilst all the East-West pairs move from one table to the next higher numbered table.

When a Howell movement is used nearly all the pairs will have to move and they do so according to instructions given on special Howell Movement cards which are placed on each table.

North player checks the No. of the boards and the No. of the players.

2) Determination of vulnerability and dealer on the board. This is predetermined according to a pattern laid down in the laws of the game and are shown on the movement cards and on the boards holding the pre-dealt hands.

3) Withdrawal of the hand to be played from the board, counting the cards to ascertain the correctness of the hand.

The bidding then proceeds as in rubber bridge.

4) The play to the trick. Instead of playing to the centre of the table, each player places his contribution or lead face up, in front of him, in turn. When the four cards have been played to the trick, each player turns his card face down, in a line, in front of him. The card is pointed toward his partner if they have won the trick, but placed with the length from right to the left if the trick was won by the opposition.

At the end of the game North player fills the score sheet and gets it checked by the opponents.

5) Determination of and agreement about the result. All four players should, as a result of the preceding paragraph, agree as to the number of tricks won by the declarer; if disagreement exists, the cards should not be disturbed, but the result determined by the director, who should be summoned.

6) Recounting the cards and replacing in the pockets of the duplicate board. Then this duplicate board holding the pre-dealt hands is moved to another table where it is played again. Thus duplicating the hands does not require any extra effort as this happens automatically as the game is played.

DUPLICATE BRIDGE SCORING :

50 For any partial game.

300 For a game, not vulnerable.

500 For a game, vulnerable.

50 For making a doubled contract

100 For making a redoubled contr.

All other scoring is the same as at Rubber Bridge. (Exclusion: Honours do not count.)

Nondoubled undertricks are 50 each.

Doubled undertricks, nonvulnerable, are scored at the rate of 100 for the first trick by which you fail, 200 for the second and third tricks and 300 for the subsequent tricks. This penalty change after 4th trick has recently been increased to put a barrier against cheap sacrifice biddings. If the contract is redoubled then these scores are just doubled again.

Mathematical expression of this, up to 4th trick, is: 2n-1. For ex. 3 down: (2x3)-1=5 (500)

Doubled undertricks, vulnerable, are scored at the rate of 200 for the first and 300 for subsequent tricks.

Mathematical expression of this is: 3n-1. For ex. 3 down: (3x3)-1=8 (800)

Examples:

3¨ : Down 2, Not vuln.	(50x2) = 100
4§ : Made 4, Immaterial	(20x4) + 50 = 130
4§ x : Down 3, Vuln.	200 + 300 + 300 = 800
2NT : Made 3, Immaterial	(40+30+30) + 50 = 150
3NT : Made 3, Not vuln.	100 + 300 = 400
3NTx : Made 3, Vuln.	(100x2) + 500 + 50 = 750
4© x : Made 4, Not vuln.	(120x2) + 300 + 50 = 590
4©xx : Made 4, Not vuln.	(120x4) + 300 + 100 = 880
4© x : Down 4, Not vuln.	100+200+200+*300* = 800
4ªxx : Made 4, Vuln.	(120x2x2) +500+100 = 1080
4ªxx : Made 5, Vuln.	(120x2x2)+(200x2)+500+100=1480
5§ x : Made 6, Vuln.	(100x2)+200+500+50 = 950
6ªx : Made 6, Vuln.	(180x2)+500+750+50 = 1660
7ªx : Made 7, Not vuln.	(210x2)+300+1000+50 =1770

SLAM SCORES -- READY TABLES :

========================================

Vul : Vulnerable x : Double

NoV : Non-vulnerable xx : Redouble

Diam.¨ - Club §

	6	*6+1*	6x	*6+1x*	*6xx*	*6+1xx*	7	7x	*7xx*
*Vul*	1370	1390

CONTENTS Return to Homepage

INTRODUCTION Contents

THE HISTORY OF BRIDGE Contents

GLOSSARY OF BRIDGE TERMS Contents

SOME PROBABILITIES Contents

GOLDEN SAYINGS Contents

HAND VALUATION : Contents

TRICK TAKING -- BIDDING REQUIREMENTS Contents

MINIMUM BIDDABLE SUITS: Contents

REBIDDABLE SUITS : Contents

CHOICE OF SUITS : Contents

OPENINGS: Contents

FIVE-CARD MAJOR : Contents

UNUSUAL OPENINGS: Contents

RESPONSES TO 1--LEVEL OPENINGS : Contents

SWISS CONVENTION: Contents

IF YOU WANT TO STOP AT 5NT : Contents

GERBER CONVENTION : Contents

1NT OPENINGS AND RESPONSES : Contents

JACOBY TRANSFER BIDS : Contents

STAYMAN CONVENTION Contents

ASTRO Contents

STRONG "TWO OF A SUIT" OPENINGS Contents

UNUSUAL OPENINGS : Contents

WEAK TWO BIDS: Contents

S E C O N D R O U N D B I D S Contents

TRIAL BID : Contents

OPENING BIDS BASED ON

---LTC--- L O S I N G T R I C K C O U N T Contents

O V E R -- C A L L S : Contents

UNUSUAL NT CONVENTION : Contents

B A L A N C I N G : Contents

SACRIFICE BIDDINGS : Contents

ALL DOUBLING SITUATIONS : Contents

SOME GUIDES FOR PENALTY DOUBLES: Contents

TRAP PASS : Contents

THE OPENING LEAD : Contents

THE IMPORTANCE OF LEADING FOURTH-BEST

-- RULE OF ELEVEN Contents

SIGNALLING : Contents

JEREMY FLINT'S alphabet: Contents

TIPS & TACTICS Contents

APPENDIX -- LEADS Contents

APPENDIX - POINTS

APPENDIX -- SCORING Contents

APPENDIX - BRIDGE DRIVES Contents

APPENDIX - DUPLICATE BRIDGE Contents